Monocle’s Charlie Jermyn talks us through the rich and varied culinary delights on offer in Ireland’s second city.
Cork is the second largest city in Ireland. Located in the south-west of Ireland, in the province of Munster, since an extension to the city’s boundary in 2019, its population is c.210,000.
The city centre is an island positioned between two channels of the River Lee which meet downstream at the eastern end of the city centre, where the quays and docks along the river lead outwards towards Lough Mahon and Cork Harbour, one of the largest natural harbours in the world.
Originally a monastic settlement, Cork was expanded by Viking invaders around 915. Its charter was granted by Prince John in 1185. Cork city was once fully walled, and the remnants of the old medieval town centre can be found around South and North Main streets. The third largest city by population on the island of Ireland, the city’s cognomen of “the rebel city” originates in its support for the Yorkist cause in the Wars of the Roses. Corkonians sometimes refer to the city as “the real capital”, a reference to its opposition to the Anglo-Irish Treaty in the Irish Civil War.
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From the colorful coastline of Cinque Terre and the quiet ports of the Aeolian Islands to the Renaissance architecture of Florence and the best pizza in Rome, every section features insider secrets and off-the-beaten-path recommendations (for example, a little restaurant in Piedmont known for its tajarin, a pasta that is the perfect bed for the region’s celebrated truffles).
Filled with gently undulating hills, golden stone buildings, pristine vineyards, and glorious art, central Italy epitomizes the joys of this country. Do you love exquisite Renaissance architecture, painting, and sculpture, along with artisanal shopping? Or do you seek medieval winding alleys and formidable fortresses along with adrenaline-filled festivals? Head to Siena, where a central grand piazza hosts the Palio, the bareback horse race that has been a town fixture for centuries. Perhaps you love pasta along with architecture? Head to Rome, where layers upon layers of history unveil themselves as you walk past treasures like the Forum or the Circus Maximus, all within sight of vibrant new cafés and bars and beloved trattorias.
In Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco wine-growing districts, vintners aren’t allowed to plant the sacred nebbiolo grape on north-facing hillsides, so hazelnut trees often fill those slopes. That most nutty of nuts, blended with rich chocolate, is a marriage of true minds, although the wedding was originally one of convenience. In the early 19th century, when trade embargoes and the Napoleanic wars caused chocolate imports to shrink, nuts extended the quantity. Turin, gateway to the castle-topped, hills of Piedmont, is one of the primo food cities in Europe. It’s regal, thanks to the palaces, ballrooms, libraries, and gardens of the Savoy rulers, who also infused the cuisine with French influences. Vintage and new trams run around the centro. The tree-lined streets, shady river walks, and numerous parks keep this the greenest city in Italy.
The majority of Lazio’s wines are white. Frascati is ubiquitous. There’s that word: drinkable. And they are. Light and summery, they’re able to heft a bit of gravitas too. From the island of Ponza, Casale del Giglio sends forth the chalky, fruity Biancolella Faro della Guardia. Biancolella is a grape variety grown only on the island. Three vineyards stand out for consistent high quality. Montiano, a merlot, is one of the region’s best wines. Next is the Sergio Mottura winery, known for its grechetto, Poggio della Costa. This pale beauty, with a whiff of citrus blossoms and stone, garners top ratings and the bonus of being well priced. Poggio Le Volpi’s Bacca Rossa, from the nero buono grape, makes an earthy and spicy partner to pasta with sausage and four cheeses. In Rome, wine nuts must feel a magnetic pull to Ristorante Casa Bleve.
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