Tag Archives: Middle East

Cover: Claremont Review Of Books – Winter 2026

Claremont Review of Books: The latest issue features ‘Special Anniversary Double Issue’….

Palace Intrigues

by Barry Strauss

The Lives of the Caesars

Imagine sitting near the apex of power in an empire and then being shown the door. You might want to write a tell-all book about it. If so, however, you would be advised to proceed with caution. Now, imagine what would barely be conceivable today: that you undertook to write your exposé while you were still in office. You would need all the finesse of a tightrope walker. 

The Lives of the Caesars

One Score and Five

by Charles R. Kesler

This essay is adapted from remarks delivered at the Claremont Review of Books 25th anniversary gala, held at the Metropolitan Club in New York City on November 6, 2025.

Radical Republican

by Randy E. Barnett

Charles Sumner: Conscience of a Nation

Charles Sumner: Conscience of a Nation

In the early hours of March 11, 1874, word spread around Washington that Charles Sumner was on the brink of death. The 63-year-old senator from Massachusetts had suffered a massive heart attack the previous evening. By 9 a.m., a crowd of several hundred had gathered in front of his home on Lafayette Square. “Colored men and women mingled with white in knots about his home,” wrote The New-York Tribune. Government workers, merchants, shopmen, waiters, and even “old colored women with baskets and bundles on their arms” stood together. Many were crying and begging to be let inside. They were stopped by one of Sumner’s friends and two policemen standing guard at the front door.

Analysis: The World Ahead In 2026 – The Economist

The Economist The World Ahead 2026 (November 13, 2025):

This is Donald Trump’s world—we’re all just living in it. The disruptor-in-chief was the biggest factor shaping global affairs in 2025, and that will be the case for as long as he remains in the White House. His norm-shattering approach has caused turmoil in some areas (as in trade) but has also delivered diplomatic results (as in Gaza) and forced necessary change (as with European defence spending). As the Trumpnado spins on in 2026, here are ten trends and themes to watch in the coming year.

1. America’s 250th.

Expect to hear wildly diverging accounts of America’s past, present and future, as Republicans and Democrats describe the same country in irreconcilably different terms to mark the 250th anniversary of its founding. Voters will then give their verdict on America’s future in the midterm elections in November. But even if the Democrats take the House, Mr Trump’s rule by bullying, tariffs and executive orders will go on.

2. Geopolitical drift.

Foreign-policy analysts are divided: is the world in a new cold war, between blocs led by America and China, or will a Trumpian deal divide the planet into American, Russian and Chinese “spheres of influence”, in which each can do as they please? Don’t count on either. Mr Trump prefers a transactional approach based on instinct, not grand geopolitical paradigms. The old global rules-based order will drift and decay further. But “coalitions of the willing” will strike new deals in areas such as defence, trade and climate.

3. War or peace? Yes.

With luck, the fragile peace in Gaza will hold. But conflicts will grind on in Ukraine, Sudan and Myanmar. Russia and China will test America’s commitment to its allies with “grey-zone” provocations in northern Europe and the South China Sea. As the line between war and peace becomes ever more blurred, tensions will rise in the Arctic, in orbit, on the sea floor and in cyberspace.

4. Problems for Europe.

All this poses a particular test for Europe. It must increase defence spending, keep America on side, boost economic growth and deal with huge deficits, even though austerity risks stoking support for hard-right parties. It also wants to remain a leading advocate for free trade and greenery. It cannot do all of these at once. A splurge on defence spending may lift growth, but only slightly.

5. China’s opportunity.

China has its own problems, with deflation, slowing growth and an industrial glut, but Mr Trump’s “America First” policy opens up new opportunities for China to boost its global influence. It will present itself as a more reliable partner, particularly in the global south, where it is striking a string of trade agreements. It is happy to do tactical deals with Mr Trump on soyabeans or chips. The trick will be to keep relations with America transactional, not confrontational.With rich countries living beyond their means, the risk of a bond-market crisis is growing

6. Economic worries.

So far America’s economy is proving more resilient than many expected to Mr Trump’s tariffs, but they will dampen global growth. And with rich countries living beyond their means, the risk of a bond-market crisis is growing. Much will depend on the replacement of Jerome Powell as chair of the Federal Reserve in May; politicising the Fed could trigger a market showdown.

7. Concerns over AI.

Rampant spending on infrastructure for artificial intelligence may also be concealing economic weakness in America. Will the bubble burst? As with railways, electricity and the internet, a crash would not mean that the technology does not have real value. But it could have wide economic impact. Either way, concern about AI’s impact on jobs, particularly those of graduates, will deepen.

8. A mixed climate picture.

Limiting warming to 1.5°C is off the table, and Mr Trump hates renewables. But global emissions have probably peaked, clean tech is booming across the global south and firms will meet or exceed their climate targets—but will keep quiet about it to avoid Mr Trump’s ire. Geothermal energy is worth watching.

9. Sporting values.

Sport can always be relied upon to provide a break from politics, right? Well, maybe not in 2026. The football World Cup is being jointly hosted by America, Canada and Mexico, whose relations are strained. Fans may stay away. But the Enhanced Games, in Las Vegas, may be even more controversial: athletes can use performance-enhancing drugs. Is it cheating—or just different?

10. Ozempic, but better.

Better, cheaper GLP-1 weight-loss drugs are coming, and in pill form, too. That will expand access. But is taking them cheating? GLP-1s extend the debate about the ethics of performance-enhancing drugs to a far wider group than athletes or bodybuilders. Few people compete in the Olympics. But anyone can take part in the Ozempic games.

ZENDEGI-E NORMAL

After the theocracy’s fall, the search for a normal life becomes Iran’s quietest revolution.

By Michael Cummins, Editor | October 16, 2025

This speculative essay, based on Karim Sadjadpour’s Foreign Affairs essay “The Autumn of the Ayatollahs,”  transforms geopolitical forecast into human story. In the imagined autumn of the theocracy, when the last sermons fade into static, the search for zendegi normal—a normal life—becomes Iran’s most radical act.

“They said the revolution would bring light. I learned to live in the dark.”

The city now keeps time by outages. Twelve days of war, then the silence that follows artillery—a silence so dense it hums. Through that hum the old voice returns, drifting across Tehran’s cracked frequencies, a papery baritone shaped by oxygen tanks and memory. Victory, he rasps. Someone in the alley laughs—quietly, the way people laugh at superstition.

On a balcony, a scarf lifts and settles on a rusted railing. Its owner, Farah, twenty-three, hides her phone under a clay pot to muffle the state’s listening apps. Across the street, a mural once blazed Death to America. Now the paint flakes into harmless confetti. Beneath it, someone has stenciled two smaller words: zendegi normal.

She whispers them aloud, tasting the risk. Life, ordinary and dangerous, returning in fragments.

Her father, gone for a decade to Evin Prison, was a radio engineer. He used to say truth lived in the static between signals. Farah believed him. Now she edits protest footage in the dark—faces half-lit by streetlamps, each one a seed of defiance. “The regime is weakening day by day,” the exiled activist on BBC Persian had said. Farah memorized the phrase the way others memorize prayers.

Her mother, Pari, hears the whispering and sighs. “Hope is contraband,” she says, stirring lentils by candlelight. “They seize it at checkpoints.”

Pari had survived every iteration of promise. “They say ‘Death to America,’” she liked to remind her students in 1983, “but never ‘Long Live Iran.’” The slogans were always about enemies, never about home. She still irons her scarf when the power flickers back, as if straight lines could summon stability. When darkness returns, she tells stories the censors forgot to erase: a poet who hid verses in recipes, a philosopher who said tyranny and piety wear the same cloak.

Now, when Farah speaks of change—“The Ayatollah is dying; everything will shift”—Pari only smiles, thinly. “Everything changes,” she says, “so that everything can remain the same.”


Farah’s generation remembers only the waiting. They are fluent in VPNs, sarcasm, and workaround hope. Every blackout feels like rehearsal for something larger.

Across town, in a military café that smells of burnt sugar and strategy, General Nouri stirs his fourth espresso and writes three words on a napkin: The debt is settled. Dust lies thick on the portraits of the Supreme Leader. Nouri, once a devout Revolutionary Guard, has outlived his faith and most of his rivals.

He decides that tanks run on diesel, not divinity. “Revelation,” he mutters, “is bad logistics.” His aides propose slogans—National Dignity, Renewal, Stability—but he wants something purer: control without conviction. “For a nation that sees plots everywhere,” he tells them, “the only trust is force.”

When he finally appears on television, the uniform is gone, replaced by a tailored gray suit. He speaks not of God but of bread, fuel, electricity. The applause sounds cautious, like people applauding themselves for surviving long enough to listen.

Nouri does not wait for the clerics to sanction him; he simply bypasses them. His first decree dissolves the Assembly of Experts, calling the aging jurists “ineffective ballast.” It is theater—a slap at the theocracy’s façade. The next decree, an anticorruption campaign, is really a seizure of rival IRGC cartels’ assets, centralizing wealth under his inner circle. This is the new cynicism: a strongman substituting grievance-driven nationalism for revolutionary dogma. He creates the National Oversight Bureau—a polite successor to the intelligence services—charged not with uncovering American plots but with logging every official’s loyalty. The old Pahlavi pathology returns: the ruler who trusts no one, not even his own shadow. A new app appears on every phone—ostensibly for energy alerts—recording users’ locations and contacts. Order, he demonstrates, is simply organized suspicion.


Meanwhile Reza, the technocrat, learns that pragmatism can be treason. He studied in Paris and returned to design an energy grid that never materialized. Now the ministries call him useful and hand him the Normalization Plan.

“Stabilize the economy,” his superior says, “but make it look indigenous.” Reza smiles the way one smiles when irony is all that remains. At night he writes memos about tariffs but sketches a different dream in the margins: a library without checkpoints, a square with shade trees, a place where arguments happen in daylight.

At home the refrigerator groans like an old argument. His daughter asks if the new leader will let them watch Turkish dramas again. “Maybe,” he says. “If the Internet behaves.”

But the Normalization Plan is fiction. He is trying to build a modern economy in a swamp of sanctioned entities. When he opens ports to international shipping, the IRGC blocks them—its generals treat the docks as personal treasuries. They prefer smuggling profits to taxable trade. Reza’s spreadsheets show that lifting sanctions would inject billions into the formal economy; Nouri’s internal reports show that the generals would lose millions in black-market rents. Iran, he realizes, is not China; it is a rentier state addicted to scarcity. Every reformist since 1979 has been suffocated by those who prosper from isolation. His new energy-grid design—efficient, global—stalls when a single colonel controlling illicit oil exports refuses to sign the permit. Pragmatism, in this system, is a liability.


When the generator fails, darkness cuts mid-sentence. The air tastes metallic. “They promised to protect us,” Pari says, fumbling for candles. “Now we protect ourselves from their promises.”

“Fattahi says we can rebuild,” Farah answers. “A secular Iran, a democratic one.”
“Child, they buried those words with your father.”
“Then I’ll dig them out.”

Pari softens. “You think rebellion is new. I once wrote freedom on a classroom chalkboard. They called it graffiti.”

Farah notices, for the first time, the quiet defiance stitched into daily life. Pari still irons her scarf, a habit of survival, but Farah ties hers loosely, a small deliberate chaos. At the bakery, she sees other acts of color—an emerald coat, a pop song leaking from a car, a man selling forbidden books in daylight. A decade ago, girls lined up in schoolyards for hijab inspections; now a cluster of teenagers stands laughing, hair visible, shoulders touching in shared, unspoken defiance. The contradiction the feminist lawyer once described—“the situation of women shows all the contradictions of the revolution”—is playing out in the streets, private shame becoming public confidence.

Outside, the muezzin’s call overlaps with a chant that could be mourning or celebration. In Tehran, it is often both.


Power, Nouri decides, requires choreography. He replaces Friday prayers with “National Addresses.” The first begins with a confession: Faith divided us. Order will unite us. For a month, it works. Trucks deliver bread under camera lights; gratitude becomes policy. But soon the whispering returns: the old Ayatollah lives in hiding, dictating verses. Nouri knows the rumor is false—he planted it himself. Suspicion, he believes, is the purest form of control. Yet even he feels its poison. Each morning he finds the same note in the intelligence reports: The debt is settled. Is it loyalty—or indictment?


Spring creeps back through cracks in concrete. Vines climb the radio towers. In a basement, Farah’s father’s transmitter still hums, knobs smoothed by fear. “Tonight,” she whispers into the mic, “we speak of normal life.”

She reads messages from listeners: a woman in Mashhad thanking the blackout for showing her the stars; a taxi driver in Shiraz who has stopped chanting anything at all; a child asking if tomorrow the water will run. As the signal fades, Farah repeats the question like a prayer. Somewhere, a neighbor mistakes her voice for revelation and kneels toward the sound. The scarf on her balcony stirs in the dark.


The old voice never returns. Rumor fills the vacuum. Pari hangs laundry on the balcony; the scarf flutters beside her, now simply weather. Below, children chalk zendegi normal across the pavement and draw birds around the words—wings in white dust. A soldier passes, glances, and does nothing. She remembers writing freedom on that school chalkboard, the silence that followed, the summons to the principal’s office. Now no one erases the word. She turns up the radio just enough to catch Farah’s voice, low and steady: “Tonight, we speak of normal life.” In the distance, generators pulse like mechanical hearts.


Nouri, now called Marshal, prefers silence to titles. He spends mornings signing exemptions, evenings counting enemies. Each new name feels like ballast. He visits the shrine city he once scorned, hoping faith might offer cover. “You have replaced revelation with maintenance,” a cleric tells him.
“Yes,” Nouri replies, “and the lights stay on.”

That night the grid collapses across five provinces. From his balcony he watches darkness reclaim the skyline. Then, through the static, a woman’s voice—the same one—rises from a pirated frequency, speaking softly of ordinary life. He sets down his glass, almost reaches for the dial, then stops. The scarf lifts somewhere he cannot see.


Weeks later, Reza finds a memory stick in his mail slot—no note, only the symbol of a scarf folded into a bird. Inside: the civic network he once designed, perfected by unseen hands. In its code comments one line repeats—The debt is settled. He knows activation could mean death. He does it anyway.

Within hours, phones across Iran connect to a network that belongs to no one. People share recipes, poetry, bread prices—nothing overtly political, only life reasserting itself. Reza watches the loading bar crawl forward, each pixel a quiet defiance. He thinks of his grandfather, who told him every wire carries a prayer. In the next room, his daughter sleeps, her tablet tucked beneath her pillow. The servers hum. He imagines the sound traveling outward—through routers, walls, cities—until it reaches someone who had stopped believing in connection. For the first time in years, the signal clears.


Farah leans toward the microphone. “Tonight,” she says, “we speak of water, bread, and breath.” Messages flood in: a baker in Yazd who plays her signal during morning prep; a soldier’s mother who whispers her words to her son before he leaves for duty; a cleric’s niece who says the broadcast reminds her of lullabies. Farah closes her eyes. The scarf rises once more. She signs off with the whisper that has become ritual: Every revolution ends in a whisper—the sound of someone turning off the radio. Then she waits, not for applause, but for the hum.


By late October, Tehran smells of dust and pomegranates. Street vendors return, cautious but smiling. The murals are being repainted—not erased but joined—Death to America fading beside smaller, humbler words: Work. Light. Air. No one claims victory; they have learned better. The revolution, it turns out, did not collapse—it exhaled. The Ayatollah became rumor, the general a footnote, and the word that endured was the simplest one: zendegi. Life. Fragile, ordinary, persistent—like a radio signal crossing mountains.

The scarf lifts once more. The signal clears. And somewhere, faint but unmistakable, the hum returns.

“From every ruin, a song will rise.” — Forugh Farrokhzad

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

Responsive Elegance: AI’s Fashion Revolution

Responsive Elegance: How AI Is Rewriting the Code of Luxury Fashion
From Prada’s neural silhouettes to Hermès’ algorithmic resistance, a new aesthetic regime emerges—where beauty is no longer just crafted, but computed.

By Michael Cummins, Editor, August 18, 2025

The atelier no longer glows with candlelight, nor hums with the quiet labor of hand-stitching—it pulses with data. Fashion, once the domain of intuition, ritual, and artisanal mastery, is being reshaped by artificial intelligence. Algorithms now whisper what beauty should look like, trained not on muses but on millions of images, trends, and cultural signals. The designer’s sketchbook has become a neural network; the runway, a reflection of predictive modeling—beauty, now rendered in code.

This transformation is not speculative—it’s unfolding in real time. Prada has explored AI tools to remix archival silhouettes with contemporary streetwear aesthetics. Burberry uses machine learning to forecast regional preferences and tailor collections to cultural nuance. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, has declared AI a strategic infrastructure, integrating it across its seventy-five maisons to optimize supply chains, personalize client experiences, and assist in creative ideation. Meanwhile, Hermès resists the wave, preserving opacity, restraint, and human discretion.

At the heart of this shift are two interlocking innovations: generative design, where AI produces visual forms based on input parameters, and predictive styling, which anticipates consumer desires through data. Together, they mark a new aesthetic regime—responsive elegance—where beauty is calibrated to cultural mood and optimized for relevance.

But what is lost in this optimization? Can algorithmic chic retain the aura of the original? Does prediction flatten surprise?

Generative Design & Predictive Styling: Fashion’s New Operating System

Generative design and predictive styling are not mere tools—they are provocations. They challenge the very foundations of fashion’s creative process, shifting the locus of authorship from the human hand to the algorithmic eye.

Generative design uses neural networks and evolutionary algorithms to produce visual outputs based on input parameters. In fashion, this means feeding the machine with data: historical collections, regional aesthetics, streetwear archives, and abstract mood descriptors. The algorithm then generates design options that reflect emergent patterns and cultural resonance.

Prada, known for its intellectual rigor, has experimented with such approaches. Analysts at Business of Fashion note that AI-driven archival remixing allows Prada to analyze past collections and filter them through contemporary preference data, producing silhouettes that feel both nostalgic and hyper-contemporary. A 1990s-inspired line recently drew on East Asian streetwear influences, creating garments that seemed to arrive from both memory and futurity at once.

Predictive styling, meanwhile, anticipates consumer desires by analyzing social media sentiment, purchasing behavior, influencer trends, and regional aesthetics. Burberry employs such tools to refine color palettes and silhouettes by geography: muted earth tones for Scandinavian markets, tailored minimalism for East Asian consumers. As Burberry’s Chief Digital Officer Rachel Waller told Vogue Business, “AI lets us listen to what customers are already telling us in ways no survey could capture.”

A McKinsey & Company 2024 report concluded:

“Generative AI is not just automation—it’s augmentation. It gives creatives the tools to experiment faster, freeing them to focus on what only humans can do.”

Yet this feedback loop—designing for what is already emerging—raises philosophical questions. Does prediction flatten originality? If fashion becomes a mirror of desire, does it lose its capacity to provoke?

Walter Benjamin, in The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction (1936), warned that mechanical replication erodes the ‘aura’—the singular presence of an artwork in time and space. In AI fashion, the aura is not lost—it is simulated, curated, and reassembled from data. The designer becomes less an originator than a selector of algorithmic possibility.

Still, there is poetry in this logic. Responsive elegance reflects the zeitgeist, translating cultural mood into material form. It is a mirror of collective desire, shaped by both human intuition and machine cognition. The challenge is to ensure that this beauty remains not only relevant—but resonant.

LVMH vs. Hermès: Two Philosophies of Luxury in the Algorithmic Age

The tension between responsive elegance and timeless restraint is embodied in the divergent strategies of LVMH and Hermès—two titans of luxury, each offering a distinct vision of beauty in the age of AI.

LVMH has embraced artificial intelligence as strategic infrastructure. In 2023, it announced a deep partnership with Google Cloud, creating a sophisticated platform that integrates AI across its seventy-five maisons. Louis Vuitton uses generative design to remix archival motifs with trend data. Sephora curates personalized product bundles through machine learning. Dom Pérignon experiments with immersive digital storytelling and packaging design based on cultural sentiment.

Franck Le Moal, LVMH’s Chief Information Officer, describes the conglomerate’s approach as “weaving together data and AI that connects the digital and store experiences, all while being seamless and invisible.” The goal is not automation for its own sake, but augmentation of the luxury experience—empowering client advisors, deepening emotional resonance, and enhancing agility.

As Forbes observed in 2024:

“LVMH sees the AI challenge for luxury not as a technological one, but as a human one. The brands prosper on authenticity and person-to-person connection. Irresponsible use of GenAI can threaten that.”

Hermès, by contrast, resists the algorithmic tide. Its brand strategy is built on restraint, consistency, and long-term value. Hermès avoids e-commerce for many products, limits advertising, and maintains a deliberately opaque supply chain. While it uses AI for logistics and internal operations, it does not foreground AI in client experiences. Its mystique depends on human discretion, not algorithmic prediction.

As Chaotropy’s Luxury Analysis 2025 put it:

“Hermès is not only immune to the coming tsunami of technological innovation—it may benefit from it. In an era of automation, scarcity and craftsmanship become more desirable.”

These two models reflect deeper aesthetic divides. LVMH offers responsive elegance—beauty that adapts to us. Hermès offers elusive beauty—beauty that asks us to adapt to it. One is immersive, scalable, and optimized; the other opaque, ritualistic, and human-centered.

When Machines Dream in Silk: Speculative Futures of AI Luxury

If today’s AI fashion is co-authored, tomorrow’s may be autonomous. As generative design and predictive styling evolve, we inch closer to a future where products are not just assisted by AI—but entirely designed by it.

Louis Vuitton’s “Sentiment Handbag” scrapes global sentiment to reflect the emotional climate of the world. Iridescent textures for optimism, protective silhouettes for anxiety. Fashion becomes emotional cartography.

Sephora’s “AI Skin Atlas” tailors skincare to micro-geographies and genetic lineages. Packaging, scent, and texture resonate with local rituals and biological needs.

Dom Pérignon’s “Algorithmic Vintage” blends champagne based on predictive modeling of soil, weather, and taste profiles. Terroir meets tensor flow.

TAG Heuer’s Smart-AI Timepiece adapts its face to your stress levels and calendar. A watch that doesn’t just tell time—it tells mood.

Bulgari’s AR-enhanced jewelry refracts algorithmic lightplay through centuries of tradition. Heritage collapses into spectacle.

These speculative products reflect a future where responsive elegance becomes autonomous elegance. Designers may become philosopher-curators—stewards of sensibility, shaping not just what the machine sees, but what it dares to feel.

Yet ethical concerns loom. A 2025 study by Amity University warned:

“AI-generated aesthetics challenge traditional modes of design expression and raise unresolved questions about authorship, originality, and cultural integrity.”

To address these risks, the proposed F.A.S.H.I.O.N. AI Ethics Framework suggests principles like Fair Credit, Authentic Context, and Human-Centric Design. These frameworks aim to preserve dignity in design, ensuring that beauty remains not just a product of data, but a reflection of cultural care.

The Algorithm in the Boutique: Two Journeys, Two Futures

In 2030, a woman enters the Louis Vuitton flagship on the Champs-Élysées. The store AI recognizes her walk, gestures, and biometric stress markers. Her past purchases, Instagram aesthetic, and travel itineraries have been quietly parsed. She’s shown a handbag designed for her demographic cluster—and a speculative “future bag” generated from global sentiment. Augmented reality mirrors shift its hue based on fashion chatter.

Across town, a man steps into Hermès on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. No AI overlay. No predictive styling. He waits while a human advisor retrieves three options from the back room. Scarcity is preserved. Opacity enforced. Beauty demands patience, loyalty, and reverence.

Responsive elegance personalizes. Timeless restraint universalizes. One anticipates. The other withholds.

Ethical Horizons: Data, Desire, and Dignity

As AI saturates luxury, the ethical stakes grow sharper:

Privacy or Surveillance? Luxury thrives on intimacy, but when biometric and behavioral data feed design, where is the line between service and intrusion? A handbag tailored to your mood may delight—but what if that mood was inferred from stress markers you didn’t consent to share?

Cultural Reverence or Algorithmic Appropriation? Algorithms trained on global aesthetics may inadvertently exploit indigenous or marginalized designs without context or consent. This risk echoes past critiques of fast fashion—but now at algorithmic speed, and with the veneer of personalization.

Crafted Scarcity or Generative Excess? Hermès’ commitment to craft-based scarcity stands in contrast to AI’s generative abundance. What happens to luxury when it becomes infinitely reproducible? Does the aura of exclusivity dissolve when beauty is just another output stream?

Philosopher Byung-Chul Han, in The Transparency Society (2012), warns:

“When everything is transparent, nothing is erotic.”

Han’s critique of transparency culture reminds us that the erotic—the mysterious, the withheld—is eroded by algorithmic exposure. In luxury, opacity is not inefficiency—it is seduction. The challenge for fashion is to preserve mystery in an age that demands metrics.

Fashion’s New Frontier


Fashion has always been a mirror of its time. In the age of artificial intelligence, that mirror becomes a sensor—reading cultural mood, forecasting desire, and generating beauty optimized for relevance. Generative design and predictive styling are not just innovations; they are provocations. They reconfigure creativity, decentralize authorship, and introduce a new aesthetic logic.

Yet as fashion becomes increasingly responsive, it risks losing its capacity for rupture—for the unexpected, the irrational, the sublime. When beauty is calibrated to what is already emerging, it may cease to surprise. The algorithm designs for resonance, not resistance. It reflects desire, but does it provoke it?

The contrast between LVMH and Hermès reveals two futures. One immersive, scalable, and optimized; the other opaque, ritualistic, and elusive. These are not just business strategies—they are aesthetic philosophies. They ask us to choose between relevance and reverence, between immediacy and depth.

As AI evolves, fashion must ask deeper questions. Can responsive elegance coexist with emotional gravity? Can algorithmic chic retain the aura of the original? Will future designers be curators of machine imagination—or custodians of human mystery?

Perhaps the most urgent question is not what AI can do, but what it should be allowed to shape. Should it design garments that reflect our moods, or challenge them? Should it optimize beauty for engagement, or preserve it as a site of contemplation? In a world increasingly governed by prediction, the most radical gesture may be to remain unpredictable.

The future of fashion may lie in hybrid forms—where machine cognition enhances human intuition, and where data-driven relevance coexists with poetic restraint. Designers may become philosophers of form, guiding algorithms not toward efficiency, but toward meaning.

In this new frontier, fashion is no longer just what we wear. It is how we think, how we feel, how we respond to a world in flux. And in that response—whether crafted by hand or generated by code—beauty must remain not only timely, but timeless. Not only visible, but visceral. Not only predicted, but profoundly imagined.

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

THE COURAGE TO QUESTION: HOW AN EMPIRE WAS BUILT

By Michael Cummins, Editor, August 16, 2025

The memory of the Islamic Golden Age evokes powerful images: Baghdad’s legendary House of Wisdom, a beacon of scholarship for the world’s greatest minds; the astronomical observatories of Samarkand, mapping the heavens with unprecedented precision; the grand libraries of Córdoba, containing more books than all of Europe combined. For roughly five centuries, from the 8th to the 13th, the Islamic world was the undisputed global epicenter of science, philosophy, and culture. Its innovations gifted humanity algebra and algorithms, advanced surgical techniques, and the classical Greek philosophy that would later fuel the European Renaissance.

This flourishing was no accident. It was the direct result of a powerful, synergistic formula: the fusion of a voracious, institutionalized curiosity with strategic state patronage and a climate of relative tolerance. Yet, its eventual decline offers an equally crucial lesson—that such a vibrant ecosystem is fragile. Its vitality is contingent on maintaining an open spirit of inquiry, the closing of which precedes stagnation and decay. The story of the Islamic Golden Age, told through its twin centers of Baghdad and Córdoba, is therefore both an inspiring blueprint for civilizational greatness and a timeless cautionary tale of how easily it can be lost.

The Engine: A Genius for Synthesis

The foundation of the Golden Age was its genius for synthesis. It was an institutionalized curiosity that understood new knowledge is forged by actively seeking out, challenging, and combining the wisdom of others. As the scholar Dimitri Gutas argues in his seminal work, Greek Thought, Arabic Culture, this was not a random burst of energy but a deliberate, state-sponsored project driven by the “social and political imperatives of a new empire.” The Abbasid Caliphs, having established their capital in Baghdad in 762, sat at the crossroads of the Persian, Byzantine, and Indian worlds. Rather than view the intellectual traditions of these conquered or rival lands as a threat, they saw them as an invaluable resource for building a universalist imperial ideology.

This conviction gave rise to the Translation Movement, a massive, state-funded effort to translate the great works of science, medicine, and philosophy into Arabic. The nerve center of this project was Baghdad’s House of Wisdom (Bayt al-Hikmah). Far more than a library, it was a dynamic academy, a translation bureau, and a research institute where scholars from across the known world collaborated.

Their goal was never mere preservation. As the historian George Saliba demonstrates, they were active innovators who critically engaged with, corrected, and vastly expanded upon ancient texts. Ptolemy’s astronomical model in the Almagest was not just translated; it was rigorously tested in new observatories, its mathematical errors identified, and its cosmological assumptions challenged by thinkers like Ibn al-Haytham (Alhazen), whose work on optics overturned centuries of classical theory.

He did not simply import knowledge; he synthesized it into something new.

This process created a powerful intellectual alchemy. In mathematics, Muhammad ibn Musa al-Khwarizmi, a Persian scholar at the House of Wisdom, encountered the revolutionary numeral system from India, which included the concept of zero. He fused this with the geometric principles of the Greeks to create a new discipline he outlined in his landmark book, The Compendious Book on Calculation by Completion and Balancing. From the title’s key term, al-jabr (‘completion’ or ‘restoring’), the world received algebra—a tool for abstract problem-solving that would transform the world.

This same engine of synthesis, fueled by a competitive spirit, was humming thousands of miles away in Al-Andalus. In its capital, Córdoba, the physician Al-Zahrawi (Abulcasis), often called the father of modern surgery, compiled the Al-Tasrif, a thirty-volume medical encyclopedia. It was a monumental synthesis of classical medical knowledge with his own pioneering innovations, introducing the use of catgut for internal stitches and designing dozens of new surgical instruments that would define European medical practice for centuries. In philosophy, the Córdoban thinker Ibn Rushd (Averroes) produced radical commentaries on Aristotle that were so influential he became known simply as “The Commentator” in medieval Europe. He sought to demonstrate that reason and revelation were not in conflict but were two paths to the same truth, a bold intellectual project that would profoundly reshape Western scholasticism.

The Fuel: Strategic Investment in Knowledge

This intellectual engine was deliberately and lavishly fueled by rulers who saw investment in knowledge as a cornerstone of state power, prestige, and practical advantage. The immense wealth of the Abbasid Caliphate, derived from its control of global trade routes, made this grand-scale patronage possible. This power was materialized in Baghdad itself, Caliph al-Mansur’s perfectly circular “City of Peace,” an architectural marvel with the caliph’s palace and the grand mosque at its absolute center, symbolizing his position as the axis of the world. Later Abbasid palaces were sprawling complexes of exquisite gardens, cool marble halls, and courtyards filled with intricate fountains and exotic animals—dazzling stages for courtly life where poets, musicians, and scholars vied for the caliph’s favor.

It was within these opulent settings that legendary patrons like Harun al-Rashid and his son, al-Ma’mun, held court. Al-Ma’mun, a rationalist thinker himself, is said to have been inspired by a dream in which he conversed with Aristotle. He poured vast resources into the House of Wisdom, funding expeditions to Byzantium to acquire rare manuscripts and reportedly paying translators their weight in gold.

This model of state-sponsored knowledge was pursued with competitive fervor in Al-Andalus. In Córdoba, the Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Rahman III sought to build a capital that would eclipse all rivals. A few miles outside the city, he constructed a fabled palace-city, Madinat al-Zahra (“the shining city”). It was a breathtaking statement of power, built in terraces on a mountainside with thousands of imported marble columns. Its audience chambers were adorned with ivory and ebony, and at the center of the most magnificent hall lay a basin filled with shimmering quicksilver, which, when agitated, would flood the room with dazzling reflections of light.

This was a “war of culture” in which libraries were arsenals and palaces were declarations of supremacy. It was in this environment that Al-Hakam II, Abd al-Rahman’s son, amassed his legendary library of over 400,000 volumes, a beacon of knowledge designed to outshine Baghdad itself. This rivalry between distant capitals created a powerful ecosystem for genius, establishing a lasting infrastructure for discovery that attracted the best minds from every corner of the globe.

The Superpower: Pragmatic and Inclusive Tolerance

The era’s intellectual and financial investments were supercharged by a climate of relative tolerance. This was not a modern, egalitarian pluralism, but a practical and strategic inclusion that prevented intellectual monocultures and proved to be a civilizational superpower. As María Rosa Menocal writes in The Ornament of the World, this was a culture capable of a “first-rate pluralism,” where contradictions were not just tolerated but were often the source of creative energy.

The work of the Golden Age was a multi-faith and multi-ethnic endeavor. In Baghdad, the chief translator at the House of Wisdom and the most important medical scholar of his time, Hunayn ibn Ishaq, was a Nestorian Christian. A master of four languages—Syriac, Arabic, Greek, and Persian—he established a rigorous methodology, collecting multiple manuscript versions of a text to ensure the most accurate translation. For generations, Christian physicians from the Bakhtishu’ family served as personal doctors to the Abbasid caliphs.

This principle was just as potent in the West. In Córdoba, the court of Abd al-Rahman III thrived on the talents of figures like Hasdai ibn Shaprut, a Jewish physician and scholar who rose to become the caliph’s most trusted diplomat and vizier. He not only managed foreign policy but also used his position to patronize Hebrew poets and grammarians, fostering a golden age of Jewish culture that flourished in the heart of Islamic Spain. This was made possible by the dhimmi (protected peoples) system, which, while hierarchical, guaranteed non-Muslims the right to practice their faith and participate in intellectual life. In the realms of science and philosophy, merit and skill were often the ultimate currency. This diversity was the Golden Age’s secret weapon.

The Cautionary Tale: The Closing of the Mind

The Golden Age did not end simply with the hoofbeats of Mongol horses in 1258. Its decline was a prolonged grinding down of the audacious spirit of open inquiry. The Mongol sack of Baghdad was a devastating blow, but it struck a body already weakened by an internal intellectual malaise.

This cultural shift is often symbolized by the brilliant 11th-century theologian, Abu Hamid al-Ghazali. His influential critique of Hellenistic philosophy, The Incoherence of the Philosophers, was not an attack on reason itself—he was a master of it, who championed Aristotelian logic as a necessary tool for theology. Rather, it was a powerful argument against what he saw as the metaphysical overreach of philosophers on matters that he believed could only be known through divine revelation. His work, however, was a symptom of a decisive cultural turn. The intellectual energy of the elite, and the patronage that supported it, began to be re-channeled—away from speculative, open-ended philosophy (falsafa) and towards the preservation and systematization of established religious doctrine.

The central questions shifted from “What can we discover?” to “How do we defend what we know?”

This was compounded by political fragmentation. As the central authority of the Abbasid Caliphate waned, insecure local rulers, like the Seljuk Turks, increasingly sought legitimacy by patronizing conservative religious scholars. Funding flowed toward madrasas focused on theology and law rather than independent scientific academies. When a culture begins to fear certain questions, it loses its ability to generate new answers. The great North African historian Ibn Khaldun, writing in the 14th century from the ruins of this intellectual world, diagnosed the decline with stunning clarity in his Muqaddimah. He observed that when civilizations become too comfortable and focused on preserving past glories, they lose the “group solidarity” and intellectual dynamism that made them great. This growing intellectual rigidity created a civilizational brittleness, leaving it vulnerable to catastrophic external shocks.

Conclusion: A Timeless Blueprint

The legacy of the Islamic Golden Age is a double-edged one. Its rise in both the East and West provides a clear blueprint for greatness, built on relentless curiosity, wise patronage, and pragmatic inclusion. This formula demonstrates that progress is a product of openness and investment. Its decline, however, is a stark warning. The erosion of that most crucial pillar—the open, questioning mind—preceded the civilization’s fall.

The essential lesson of this epic is that culture precedes power. The wealth, military strength, and political influence of the caliphates were not the cause of the Golden Age; they were the result of a culture confident enough to be curious, strong enough to tolerate dissent, and wise enough to invest in knowledge. The engine of its greatness was not the treasury, but the House of Wisdom and the Library of Córdoba. Consequently, its decline was not merely a political or military failure, but the late-stage symptom of an intellectual culture that had begun to value orthodoxy over inquiry. When the questions stopped, the innovations stopped, and the foundations of power crumbled from within.

This narrative is not a historical artifact. It is a timeless blueprint, revealing that the most critical infrastructure any society can build is not made of stone or steel, but of the institutions and values that protect and promote the open pursuit of knowledge. In our modern world, the House of Wisdom finds its echo in publicly funded research universities, in international scientific collaborations, and in the legal frameworks that protect free speech and intellectual inquiry. The patronage of al-Ma’mun is mirrored in the grants that fund basic research—the kind of open-ended exploration that may not have an immediate commercial application but is the seedbed of future revolutions. The tolerance of Córdoba is the argument for diversity in our labs, our boardrooms, and our governments, recognizing that a multiplicity of perspectives is not a liability to be managed, but a strategic asset that fuels innovation.

The open secret of the Golden Age is therefore not a secret at all, but a choice. It is the choice to believe that greatness is born from the courage to question, to synthesize, and to explore. It is the choice to see knowledge not as a finite territory to be defended, but as an infinite ocean to be discovered. The moment a society decides it already has all the answers—the moment it values certainty over curiosity—is the moment its decline becomes inevitable.

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

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