FOREIGN AFFAIRS MAGAZINE – SEPTEMBER 2025 PREVIEW

Foreign Affairs-外交事务2025.09&10月号下载PDF电子版网盘杂志订阅-易

FOREIGN AFFAIRS MAGAZINE: The latest issue features ‘The Weaponized World Economy’

The Weaponized World Economy

Surviving the New Age of Economic Coercion by Henry Farrell and Abraham Newman

The New Economic Geography

Who Profits in a Post-American World? Adam S. Posen

The Real China Model

Beijing’s Enduring Formula for Wealth and Power by Dan Wang and Arthur Kroeber

After the Trade War

Remaking Rules From the Ruins of the Rules-Based System by Michael B. G. Froman

The Silvered City with a Fevered Heart

In 1590, the Spanish port of Seville was the epicenter of the first global economy—a city drowning in silver, haunted by plagues, and inventing the anxieties we now know all too well. Its story is a warning.

By Michael Cummins, Editor, Intellicurean, August 20, 2025

Before there was Wall Street, London, or Shanghai, there was Seville. We live today in a world defined by intricate global supply chains, where fortunes are made on the abstract flow of capital and data, and where a single ship stuck in a canal can trigger worldwide anxiety. We know the feeling of living in a hyper-connected age, with all its dizzying wealth and its profound fragility. We talk of unicorn companies, bubbles, and systemic risk, sensing that the towering edifice of our prosperity rests on foundations we don’t fully understand. But what did the very first version of that world feel like, before the risks were modeled and the consequences were known?

To understand the unnerving vertigo of our own time, you have to go back to a muddy river in southern Spain, four centuries ago, when the modern world was being born in a flash of silver and blood. You have to imagine a spring morning in 1590.

At first light, the galleon Nuestra Señora de la Merced drifts slowly up the Guadalquivir River. Its sails, slack after the long Atlantic crossing from Panama, are stained with salt and sea-spray. Its sturdy Iberian oak hull, scarred by shipworms and storms, creaks under the registered weight of 500 tons. On the bustling Arenal waterfront, a dockworker named Mateo shields his eyes against the rising sun. He sees not a symbol of imperial glory, but the promise of a day’s wage, the chance to buy bread for his family at a price that seems to climb higher every month. His ropes are coiled in calloused hands, the air thick around him with the smell of pitch, citrus, and the river’s brackish breath.

Further back, shielded from the morning sun in the arcaded loggias of the Calle de las Gradas, men of a different class watch the same ship with a far more specific terror. A Genoese banker in sober black silk mentally calculates the interest on the massive loan he extended to King Philip II, a loan secured against this very shipment. Beside him, a Castilian merchant, having mortgaged his ancestral lands to finance a speculative cargo of wine and olive oil on the outgoing voyage, feels a tremor of hope and fear. Was the voyage profitable? Did pirates strike? Did the storms claim his fortune?

In a dusty office nearby, a scribe from the Casa de la Contratación—the formidable House of Trade—readies his quills and ledgers. He will spend the day recording every ingot, every barrel, every notarized claim, his neat columns tracking the quinto real, the “royal fifth,” the 20% tax on all precious metals that funds Spain’s sprawling wars in Flanders and the Mediterranean. In this moment, a city of nearly 150,000 souls—the largest and most important in Castile—holds its breath. The Guadalquivir carries not only treasure but the very lifeblood of an empire. And with it, a new kind of global pulse.

For nearly a century, Seville held the absolute monopoly on all trade with the Americas. Granted by the crown in 1503, this privilege meant every ounce of silver from the great mountain-mine of Potosí, every barrel of cochineal dye, every crate of indigo, and every human being—whether a returning colonist, a hopeful migrant, or an enslaved African—was funneled through its port. It was not merely a metropolis; it was a complex, living organism. Its artery was the river; its brain was the bureaucracy of the Casa; its beating heart was the Plaza de San Francisco, where coin, credit, and rumor changed hands with dizzying speed.

The brain of this operation, the Casa de la Contratación, was an institution without precedent. It was a combination of a shipping board, a research institute, and a supreme court for all maritime affairs. Within its walls, master cartographers secretly updated the Padrón Real, the master map of the New World, a document of such immense geopolitical value that its theft would be a blow to the entire empire. Its school for pilots trained men to navigate by the stars to a world that was, to most Europeans, still a realm of myth. The Casa licensed every ship, certified every sailor, and processed every manifest. It was the centralized, bureaucratic engine of the world’s first truly global enterprise.

The lifeblood of the system was the annual treasure fleet, the Flota de Indias. This convoy system, a necessity born from the existential threat of French and English privateers, was a marvel of logistics. Sailing in two main branches—one to Mexico, the other to Panama to collect the silver of Peru—the fleets were floating cities, military and commercial operations of immense scale. Their return, usually in late spring, was the moment the imperial heart beat loudest. The sheer volume of wealth was staggering. According to the foundational economic data compiled by Earl J. Hamilton, in the two decades from 1581 to 1600, over 52 million pesos in silver and gold were officially registered passing through Seville. The clang of heavy presses striking that silver into the iconic reales de a ocho, or pieces of eight—the world’s first global currency—echoed from the Royal Mint near the river.

This deluge of wealth transformed the city. To manage the booming trade, construction had begun in 1584 on a grand new merchant exchange, the Casa Lonja de Mercaderes. Designed by Juan de Herrera, the architect of the king’s austere Escorial palace, its monumental Renaissance style was a physical manifestation of Seville’s self-image: ordered, powerful, and the nerve center of a global Christian empire. The great Gothic Cathedral, already one of the largest in Christendom, glittered with new silver candlesticks and gold-leafed altarpieces forged from American bullion. The city attracted a complex web of foreign merchants and bankers who operated in a state of symbiotic tension with the Spanish crown. As historian Eberhard Crailsheim explains, foreign merchants were “indispensable for the functioning of the Spanish monopoly system, while at the same time they were its greatest threat.” They provided the credit and financial instruments the empire desperately needed, ensuring that American silver circulated rapidly into the European economy to pay the crown’s debts, often before it had even been unloaded at the Arenal.


But this firehose of silver was never pure. The same river that delivered the bullion also carried plague, contraband, and devastating floodwaters. That river of wealth was also a river of poison.

The most visceral fear was disease. Each arriving fleet was a potential vector for an epidemic. Ships from the Caribbean, their crews weakened by months at sea and ravaged by scurvy, disgorged sailors carrying typhus, smallpox, and what was then called vómito negro (yellow fever) into the densely packed, unsanitary tenements of the Triana neighborhood across the river. An outbreak meant sudden, terrifying death. It meant closed gates, armed guards preventing travel, and the dreaded chalk mark on the door of an infected house. While the truly catastrophic Great Castilian Plague of 1596–1601, which would kill a quarter of the city’s population, was still a few years away, smaller outbreaks kept the city in a perpetual state of anxiety.

Economic contagion was just as insidious. The endless flood of American silver triggered a century-long inflationary crisis known as the Price Revolution. As the money supply swelled, the value of each coin fell, and the price of everything—from bread and wine to cloth and rent—skyrocketed. A blacksmith or farmer in the Castilian countryside found himself poorer each year, his labor worth less and less. The very treasure that enriched the king and a small class of merchants was simultaneously impoverishing the kingdom. This paradox revealed the empire’s core fragility: it was living on credit, perpetually on the verge of bankruptcy (which it would declare again in 1596), its vast military and political ambitions financed by treasure it had not yet received.

Illicit trade pulsed through the artery with the same rhythm as legal commerce. Silver was smuggled to avoid the quinto real, often with the collusion of the very officials meant to prevent it. Forbidden books—Protestant tracts from Northern Europe or scientific texts deemed heretical—were hidden in barrels and circulated in the city’s more than one hundred taverns. And in the shadows of the Cathedral, a teeming underworld flourished. This was the world Miguel de Cervantes knew intimately. In the late 1580s, he served in Seville as a naval commissary, requisitioning wheat and olive oil for the navy—a frustrating job that landed him in jail and exposed him to the city’s seedy underbelly. His experience shaped his picaresque tale Rinconete y Cortadillo, a brilliant portrait of a city of hustlers, thieves, and corrupt officials who had created a perfect, parasitic society in the shadow of imperial wealth.

The Guadalquivir itself, the source of all this prosperity, was turning against the city. Centuries of deforestation and agricultural runoff were causing the river channel to silt up, creating treacherous sandbars near its mouth. As modern hydrological studies confirm, the late sixteenth century was a period of extreme environmental change in the estuary. At the time, the city’s frequent, devastating floods were interpreted as divine punishment for its sins of greed and luxury. In reality, it was a slow, man-made thrombosis. The great artery was hardening.


In a city defined by such spectacular contradictions—unimaginable wealth and desperate poverty, global connection and epidemic disease, rigid piety and rampant crime—life was lived on a knife’s edge. To manage these profound anxieties, Seville transformed itself into a grand stage, and the river became the backdrop for its most important dramas of power, faith, and identity.

The sensory experience of the port was an unforgettable piece of theater. Chroniclers describe the overwhelming smells of spices and sewage, the cacophony of ships’ bells and construction cranes, and the shouts of sailors in a dozen languages. Enslaved West Africans loaded and unloaded cargo in the grueling sun, their forced labor the invisible foundation of the entire enterprise. Moorish artisans crafted vibrant ceramics in Triana, while Flemish merchants in lace collars inspected textiles near the Casa Lonja. It was a microcosm of a new, globalized world, assembled by force and commerce on the banks of a single river.

To contain the social and spiritual anxieties this world produced, the city deployed the power of art and ritual. Painters of the emerging Seville School, like Francisco Pacheco, experimented with dramatic chiaroscuro, their canvases echoing the city’s tension between divine order and worldly excess. The church, enriched beyond measure by the tithes on American silver, became the primary patron of this art. As historian Amanda Wunder argues in her book Baroque Seville, these spectacular displays were essential civic mechanisms. The city, she writes, sought to “transmute the New World’s silver into a spiritual treasure that could be stored up in heaven” as a defense against the very instability that wealth created.

Nowhere was this clearer than during the feast of Corpus Christi, the city’s most important celebration. The streets were covered in flowers. The great guilds marched with their banners. And at the heart of the procession was the custodia, an immense, fortress-like monstrance of solid silver, paraded through the city as a tangible symbol of God’s presence. This was not mere decoration; it was a carefully choreographed piece of public therapy. It took the source of the city’s anxiety—silver—and transformed it into an object of sacred devotion, reassuring the populace that their chaotic world was still under divine control. In this baroque theater, as the eminent historian Antonio Domínguez Ortiz noted, Seville’s greatness was inseparable from its “spectacular fragility.”

Overseeing this entire performance was the Holy Office of the Inquisition, its headquarters looming in the castle of Triana. The Inquisition was not just hunting heretics; it was policing the boundaries of thought and expression in a dangerously cosmopolitan city. Its public trials, the autos-da-fé, were another, darker form of theater, designed to root out dissent and reinforce social order. Its presence created a climate of suspicion that simmered beneath the city’s vibrant surface.


The year 1590 was, in retrospect, a historical precipice. To a contemporary observer standing on the Triana bridge, watching the forest of masts on the river, Seville must have seemed invincible, the permanent heart of a permanent empire. The monumental walls of the Casa Lonja were rising, the mint’s hammers clanged incessantly, and the Cathedral shone with American treasure.

Yet within its very triumph lay the seeds of its decay. The shocking defeat of the Spanish Armada just two years prior had been a blow to both the treasury and the national psyche. The bankruptcy of 1596 loomed. The river’s sedimentation was worsening, a physical reality that would, over the next few decades, slowly choke the port and eventually divert the monopoly of trade to Cádiz. The great artery was silting, even as its pulse quickened.

Still, to walk the riverbank in 1590 was to witness the apex. Children stared at ships vanishing over the horizon toward a nearly mythical world; merchants prayed over contracts sealed with a handshake; artisans fashioned silver into monstrances of breathtaking complexity. The Guadalquivir carried all these flows—material, sensory, and symbolic. Its pulse was not merely economic; it was emotional, theological, and aesthetic. A popular epithet of the time called Seville “the city where the world’s heart beats.” In 1590, that heartbeat was fevered, irregular, and already trembling with overexertion—but it was magnificent.

At dusk, as the river darkened to ink, the silver locked away in the city’s coffers seemed to gleam like a heart beating too fast, too bright, and far too fragile to last. In that shimmer lay the paradox of Seville: a city at once glorious and doomed, sustained and threatened by the very waters that had forged its destiny. It’s a paradox baked into the very nature of globalization—a fevered heartbeat we can still hear in the rhythm of our own world.

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

TIMES LITERARY SUPPLEMENT – AUGUST 22, 2025 PREVIEW

TIMES LITERARY SUPPLEMENT: The latest issue features Lawrence Durrell, “so many towns” that could “become Alexandria” – “founded”, as indeed so many were, “At the doors of Africa”, “Upon a parting”. Yet what other town could boast of anything to compare with that “last pale / Lighthouse”, the Pharos of Alexandria, “like a Samson blinded”?

Family of fabulists

Literary myth-making, from Alexandria to Corfu By Jonathan Keates

‘Celestial walnuts’

The pleasures and challenges of making – and describing – great wines By George Berridge

The path to Rome

Investigating the deathbed conversion of Oscar Wilde By Richard A. Kaye

More, now, again

To what extent are addicts responsible for their actions? By Crispin Sartwell

THE NEW YORK TIMES – WEDNESDAY, AUG. 20, 2025

Democrats’ ‘Flashing Red Alert’: What the Voter Registration Data Shows

The party is bleeding support beyond the ballot box, a new analysis shows.

For Trump, Flashy Summits Come First. Grunt Work Comes Next.

President Trump has effectively flipped the diplomatic process. After two crucial meetings aimed at ending the Ukraine war, detailed proposals remain elusive.

How Ukraine’s Frontline Has Moved

Here is a look at Russia’s advances into Ukrainian territory since in 2014.

Putin Won’t Even Say Zelensky’s Name. So Will He Sit Down With Him?

What’s Next for the Ukraine Peace Talks?

SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN MAGAZINE – SEPTEMBER 2025

Scientific American Volume 333, Issue 2 | Scientific American

SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN MAGAZINE: The latest issue features ‘The End of Food Allergies?’ – Life-changing therapies for peanut reactions are already here.

How Your Brain’s Nightly Cleanse Keeps It Healthy

Washing waste from the brain is an essential function of sleep—and it could help ward off dementia BY Lydia Denworth

Can Peanut Allergies Be Cured?

Maryn McKenna

What Happens When an Entire Generation of Scientists Changes Its Mind

Charles C. Mann

How Scientists Finally Learned That Nerves Regrow

Diana Kwon

Plastics Started as a Sustainability Solution. What Went Wrong?

Jen Schwartz

The Universe Is Static. No, Expanding! Wait, Slowing? Oh, Accelerating

Richard Panek

How RNA Unseated DNA as the Most Important Molecule in Your Body

Philip Ball

AI, Smartphones, and the Student Attention Crisis in U.S. Public Schools

By Michael Cummins, Editor, August 19, 2025

In a recent New York Times focus group, twelve public-school teachers described how phones, social media, and artificial intelligence have reshaped the classroom. Tom, a California biology teacher, captured the shift with unsettling clarity: “It’s part of their whole operating schema.” For many students, the smartphone is no longer a tool but an extension of self, fused with identity and cognition.

Rachel, a teacher in New Jersey, put it even more bluntly:

“They’re just waiting to just get back on their phone. It’s like class time is almost just a pause in between what they really want to be doing.”

What these teachers describe is not mere distraction but a transformation of human attention. The classroom, once imagined as a sanctuary for presence and intellectual encounter, has become a liminal space between dopamine hits. Students no longer “use” their phones; they inhabit them.

The Canadian media theorist Marshall McLuhan warned as early as the 1960s that every new medium extends the human body and reshapes perception. “The medium is the message,” he argued — meaning that the form of technology alters our thought more profoundly than its content. If the printed book once trained us to think linearly and analytically, the smartphone has restructured cognition into fragments: alert-driven, socially mediated, and algorithmically tuned.

The philosopher Sherry Turkle has documented this cultural drift in works such as Alone Together and Reclaiming Conversation. Phones, she argues, create a paradoxical intimacy: constant connection yet diminished presence. What the teachers describe in the Times focus group echoes Turkle’s findings — students are physically in class but psychically elsewhere.

This fracture has profound educational stakes. The reading brain that Maryanne Wolf has studied in Reader, Come Home — slow, deep, and integrative — is being supplanted by skimming, scanning, and swiping. And as psychologist Daniel Kahneman showed, our cognition is divided between “fast” intuitive processing (System 1) and “slow” deliberate reasoning (System 2). Phones tilt us heavily toward System 1, privileging speed and reaction over reflection and patience.

The teachers in the focus group thus reveal something larger than classroom management woes: they describe a civilizational shift in the ecology of human attention. To understand what’s at stake, we must see the smartphone not simply as a device but as a prosthetic self — an appendage of memory, identity, and agency. And we must ask, with urgency, whether education can still cultivate wisdom in a world of perpetual distraction.


The Collapse of Presence

The first crisis that phones introduce into the classroom is the erosion of presence. Presence is not just physical attendance but the attunement of mind and spirit to a shared moment. Teachers have always battled distraction — doodles, whispers, glances out the window — but never before has distraction been engineered with billion-dollar precision.

Platforms like TikTok and Instagram are not neutral diversions; they are laboratories of persuasion designed to hijack attention. Tristan Harris, a former Google ethicist, has described them as slot machines in our pockets, each swipe promising another dopamine jackpot. For a student seated in a fluorescent-lit classroom, the comparison is unfair: Shakespeare or stoichiometry cannot compete with an infinite feed of personalized spectacle.

McLuhan’s insight about “extensions of man” takes on new urgency here. If the book extended the eye and trained the linear mind, the phone extends the nervous system itself, embedding the individual into a perpetual flow of stimuli. Students who describe feeling “naked without their phone” are not indulging in metaphor — they are articulating the visceral truth of prosthesis.

The pandemic deepened this fracture. During remote learning, students learned to toggle between school tabs and entertainment tabs, multitasking as survival. Now, back in physical classrooms, many have not relearned how to sit with boredom, struggle, or silence. Teachers describe students panicking when asked to read even a page without their phones nearby.

Maryanne Wolf’s neuroscience offers a stark warning: when the brain is rewired for scanning and skimming, the capacity for deep reading — for inhabiting complex narratives, empathizing with characters, or grappling with ambiguity — atrophies. What is lost is not just literary skill but the very neurological substrate of reflection.

Presence is no longer the default of the classroom but a countercultural achievement.

And here Kahneman’s framework becomes crucial. Education traditionally cultivates System 2 — the slow, effortful reasoning needed for mathematics, philosophy, or moral deliberation. But phones condition System 1: reactive, fast, emotionally charged. The result is a generation fluent in intuition but impoverished in deliberation.


The Wild West of AI

If phones fragment attention, artificial intelligence complicates authorship and authenticity. For teachers, the challenge is no longer merely whether a student has done the homework but whether the “student” is even the author at all.

ChatGPT and its successors have entered the classroom like a silent revolution. Students can generate essays, lab reports, even poetry in seconds. For some, this is liberation: a way to bypass drudgery and focus on synthesis. For others, it is a temptation to outsource thinking altogether.

Sherry Turkle’s concept of “simulation” is instructive here. In Simulation and Its Discontents, she describes how scientists and engineers, once trained on physical materials, now learn through computer models — and in the process, risk confusing the model for reality. In classrooms, AI creates a similar slippage: simulated thought that masquerades as student thought.

Teachers in the Times focus group voiced this anxiety. One noted: “You don’t know if they wrote it, or if it’s ChatGPT.” Assessment becomes not only a question of accuracy but of authenticity. What does it mean to grade an essay if the essay may be an algorithmic pastiche?

The comparison with earlier technologies is tempting. Calculators once threatened arithmetic; Wikipedia once threatened memorization. But AI is categorically different. A calculator does not claim to “think”; Wikipedia does not pretend to be you. Generative AI blurs authorship itself, eroding the very link between student, process, and product.

And yet, as McLuhan would remind us, every technology contains both peril and possibility. AI could be framed not as a substitute but as a collaborator — a partner in inquiry that scaffolds learning rather than replaces it. Teachers who integrate AI transparently, asking students to annotate or critique its outputs, may yet reclaim it as a tool for System 2 reasoning.

The danger is not that students will think less but that they will mistake machine fluency for their own voice.

But the Wild West remains. Until schools articulate norms, AI risks widening the gap between performance and understanding, appearance and reality.


The Inequality of Attention

Phones and AI do not distribute their burdens equally. The third crisis teachers describe is an inequality of attention that maps onto existing social divides.

Affluent families increasingly send their children to private or charter schools that restrict or ban phones altogether. At such schools, presence becomes a protected resource, and students experience something closer to the traditional “deep time” of education. Meanwhile, underfunded public schools are often powerless to enforce bans, leaving students marooned in a sea of distraction.

This disparity mirrors what sociologist Pierre Bourdieu called cultural capital — the non-financial assets that confer advantage, from language to habits of attention. In the digital era, the ability to disconnect becomes the ultimate form of privilege. To be shielded from distraction is to be granted access to focus, patience, and the deep literacy that Wolf describes.

Teachers in lower-income districts report students who cannot imagine life without phones, who measure self-worth in likes and streaks. For them, literacy itself feels like an alien demand — why labor through a novel when affirmation is instant online?

Maryanne Wolf warns that we are drifting toward a bifurcated literacy society: one in which elites preserve the capacity for deep reading while the majority are confined to surface skimming. The consequences for democracy are chilling. A polity trained only in System 1 thinking will be perpetually vulnerable to manipulation, propaganda, and authoritarian appeals.

The inequality of attention may prove more consequential than the inequality of income.

If democracy depends on citizens capable of deliberation, empathy, and historical memory, then the erosion of deep literacy is not a classroom problem but a civic emergency. Education cannot be reduced to test scores or job readiness; it is the training ground of the democratic imagination. And when that imagination is fractured by perpetual distraction, the republic itself trembles.


Reclaiming Focus in the Classroom

What, then, is to be done? The teachers’ testimonies, amplified by McLuhan, Turkle, Wolf, and Kahneman, might lead us toward despair. Phones colonize attention; AI destabilizes authorship; inequality corrodes the very ground of democracy. But despair is itself a form of surrender, and teachers cannot afford surrender.

Hope begins with clarity. We must name the problem not as “kids these days” but as a structural transformation of attention. To expect students to resist billion-dollar platforms alone is naive; schools must become countercultural sanctuaries where presence is cultivated as deliberately as literacy.

Practical steps follow. Schools can implement phone-free policies, not as punishment but as liberation — an invitation to reclaim time. Teachers can design “slow pedagogy” moments: extended reading, unbroken dialogue, silent reflection. AI can be reframed as a tool for meta-cognition, with students asked not merely to use it but to critique it, to compare its fluency with their own evolving voice.

Above all, we must remember that education is not simply about information transfer but about formation of the self. McLuhan’s dictum reminds us that the medium reshapes the student as much as the message. If we allow the medium of the phone to dominate uncritically, we should not be surprised when students emerge fragmented, reactive, and estranged from presence.

And yet, history offers reassurance. Plato once feared that writing itself would erode memory; medieval teachers once feared the printing press would dilute authority. Each medium reshaped thought, but each also produced new forms of creativity, knowledge, and freedom. The task is not to romanticize the past but to steward the present wisely.

Hannah Arendt, reflecting on education, insisted that every generation is responsible for introducing the young to the world as it is — flawed, fragile, yet redeemable. To abdicate that responsibility is to abandon both children and the world itself. Teachers today, facing the prosthetic selves of their students, are engaged in precisely this work: holding open the possibility of presence, of deep thought, of human encounter, against the centrifugal pull of the screen.

Education is the wager that presence can be cultivated even in an age of absence.

In the end, phones may be prosthetic selves — but they need not be destiny. The prosthesis can be acknowledged, critiqued, even integrated into a richer conception of the human. What matters is that students come to see themselves not as appendages of the machine but as agents capable of reflection, relationship, and wisdom.

The future of education — and perhaps democracy itself — depends on this wager. That in classrooms across America, teachers and students together might still choose presence over distraction, depth over skimming, authenticity over simulation. It is a fragile hope, but a necessary one.

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

History Today Magazine – September 2025 Preview

HISTORY TODAY MAGAZINE: The latest issue features ‘The Greek World At War’….

The Ancient Greek World at War

For the ancient Greeks, the Peloponnesian War was a conflict involving the entire world. For Thucydides, it was a lesson in the realities of human nature. Robin Waterfield

Afghanistan 1919: Facing the Wasps’ Nest

Against the odds, the Third Anglo-Afghan War led to Afghanistan’s independence from the British Empire. Heather Campbell

‘The Invention of the Eastern Question’ by Ozan Ozavcı review

The Invention of the Eastern Question: Sir Robert Liston and Ottoman Diplomacy in the Age of Revolutions by Ozan Ozavcı offers the ‘sick man of Europe’ a second opinion.

THE NEW YORK TIMES – TUESDAY, AUGUST 19, 2025

Europe’s Leaders Headed Off Give-Away to Putin, but Emerged Without a Clear Path

The leaders dropped everything to travel to Washington to ensure President Trump didn’t force a bad deal on Ukraine. A road map for peace remains elusive.

It’s One Thing to Promise Ukraine Security. It’s Quite Another to Deliver.

Russia seems unlikely to agree to Western troops in Ukraine as part of any deal to end the war.

In Pursuing Trump Rival, Weaponization Czar Sidesteps Justice Dept. Norms

Edward Martin Jr. is among the top administration officials who have tried to cast the specter of criminality on President Trump’s enemies.

Trump Administration Discusses Taking 10% Stake in Intel

Federal officials are considering the move because Intel, the last leading-edge chipmaker in the United States, has been struggling.

Responsive Elegance: AI’s Fashion Revolution

Responsive Elegance: How AI Is Rewriting the Code of Luxury Fashion
From Prada’s neural silhouettes to Hermès’ algorithmic resistance, a new aesthetic regime emerges—where beauty is no longer just crafted, but computed.

By Michael Cummins, Editor, August 18, 2025

The atelier no longer glows with candlelight, nor hums with the quiet labor of hand-stitching—it pulses with data. Fashion, once the domain of intuition, ritual, and artisanal mastery, is being reshaped by artificial intelligence. Algorithms now whisper what beauty should look like, trained not on muses but on millions of images, trends, and cultural signals. The designer’s sketchbook has become a neural network; the runway, a reflection of predictive modeling—beauty, now rendered in code.

This transformation is not speculative—it’s unfolding in real time. Prada has explored AI tools to remix archival silhouettes with contemporary streetwear aesthetics. Burberry uses machine learning to forecast regional preferences and tailor collections to cultural nuance. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, has declared AI a strategic infrastructure, integrating it across its seventy-five maisons to optimize supply chains, personalize client experiences, and assist in creative ideation. Meanwhile, Hermès resists the wave, preserving opacity, restraint, and human discretion.

At the heart of this shift are two interlocking innovations: generative design, where AI produces visual forms based on input parameters, and predictive styling, which anticipates consumer desires through data. Together, they mark a new aesthetic regime—responsive elegance—where beauty is calibrated to cultural mood and optimized for relevance.

But what is lost in this optimization? Can algorithmic chic retain the aura of the original? Does prediction flatten surprise?

Generative Design & Predictive Styling: Fashion’s New Operating System

Generative design and predictive styling are not mere tools—they are provocations. They challenge the very foundations of fashion’s creative process, shifting the locus of authorship from the human hand to the algorithmic eye.

Generative design uses neural networks and evolutionary algorithms to produce visual outputs based on input parameters. In fashion, this means feeding the machine with data: historical collections, regional aesthetics, streetwear archives, and abstract mood descriptors. The algorithm then generates design options that reflect emergent patterns and cultural resonance.

Prada, known for its intellectual rigor, has experimented with such approaches. Analysts at Business of Fashion note that AI-driven archival remixing allows Prada to analyze past collections and filter them through contemporary preference data, producing silhouettes that feel both nostalgic and hyper-contemporary. A 1990s-inspired line recently drew on East Asian streetwear influences, creating garments that seemed to arrive from both memory and futurity at once.

Predictive styling, meanwhile, anticipates consumer desires by analyzing social media sentiment, purchasing behavior, influencer trends, and regional aesthetics. Burberry employs such tools to refine color palettes and silhouettes by geography: muted earth tones for Scandinavian markets, tailored minimalism for East Asian consumers. As Burberry’s Chief Digital Officer Rachel Waller told Vogue Business, “AI lets us listen to what customers are already telling us in ways no survey could capture.”

A McKinsey & Company 2024 report concluded:

“Generative AI is not just automation—it’s augmentation. It gives creatives the tools to experiment faster, freeing them to focus on what only humans can do.”

Yet this feedback loop—designing for what is already emerging—raises philosophical questions. Does prediction flatten originality? If fashion becomes a mirror of desire, does it lose its capacity to provoke?

Walter Benjamin, in The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction (1936), warned that mechanical replication erodes the ‘aura’—the singular presence of an artwork in time and space. In AI fashion, the aura is not lost—it is simulated, curated, and reassembled from data. The designer becomes less an originator than a selector of algorithmic possibility.

Still, there is poetry in this logic. Responsive elegance reflects the zeitgeist, translating cultural mood into material form. It is a mirror of collective desire, shaped by both human intuition and machine cognition. The challenge is to ensure that this beauty remains not only relevant—but resonant.

LVMH vs. Hermès: Two Philosophies of Luxury in the Algorithmic Age

The tension between responsive elegance and timeless restraint is embodied in the divergent strategies of LVMH and Hermès—two titans of luxury, each offering a distinct vision of beauty in the age of AI.

LVMH has embraced artificial intelligence as strategic infrastructure. In 2023, it announced a deep partnership with Google Cloud, creating a sophisticated platform that integrates AI across its seventy-five maisons. Louis Vuitton uses generative design to remix archival motifs with trend data. Sephora curates personalized product bundles through machine learning. Dom Pérignon experiments with immersive digital storytelling and packaging design based on cultural sentiment.

Franck Le Moal, LVMH’s Chief Information Officer, describes the conglomerate’s approach as “weaving together data and AI that connects the digital and store experiences, all while being seamless and invisible.” The goal is not automation for its own sake, but augmentation of the luxury experience—empowering client advisors, deepening emotional resonance, and enhancing agility.

As Forbes observed in 2024:

“LVMH sees the AI challenge for luxury not as a technological one, but as a human one. The brands prosper on authenticity and person-to-person connection. Irresponsible use of GenAI can threaten that.”

Hermès, by contrast, resists the algorithmic tide. Its brand strategy is built on restraint, consistency, and long-term value. Hermès avoids e-commerce for many products, limits advertising, and maintains a deliberately opaque supply chain. While it uses AI for logistics and internal operations, it does not foreground AI in client experiences. Its mystique depends on human discretion, not algorithmic prediction.

As Chaotropy’s Luxury Analysis 2025 put it:

“Hermès is not only immune to the coming tsunami of technological innovation—it may benefit from it. In an era of automation, scarcity and craftsmanship become more desirable.”

These two models reflect deeper aesthetic divides. LVMH offers responsive elegance—beauty that adapts to us. Hermès offers elusive beauty—beauty that asks us to adapt to it. One is immersive, scalable, and optimized; the other opaque, ritualistic, and human-centered.

When Machines Dream in Silk: Speculative Futures of AI Luxury

If today’s AI fashion is co-authored, tomorrow’s may be autonomous. As generative design and predictive styling evolve, we inch closer to a future where products are not just assisted by AI—but entirely designed by it.

Louis Vuitton’s “Sentiment Handbag” scrapes global sentiment to reflect the emotional climate of the world. Iridescent textures for optimism, protective silhouettes for anxiety. Fashion becomes emotional cartography.

Sephora’s “AI Skin Atlas” tailors skincare to micro-geographies and genetic lineages. Packaging, scent, and texture resonate with local rituals and biological needs.

Dom Pérignon’s “Algorithmic Vintage” blends champagne based on predictive modeling of soil, weather, and taste profiles. Terroir meets tensor flow.

TAG Heuer’s Smart-AI Timepiece adapts its face to your stress levels and calendar. A watch that doesn’t just tell time—it tells mood.

Bulgari’s AR-enhanced jewelry refracts algorithmic lightplay through centuries of tradition. Heritage collapses into spectacle.

These speculative products reflect a future where responsive elegance becomes autonomous elegance. Designers may become philosopher-curators—stewards of sensibility, shaping not just what the machine sees, but what it dares to feel.

Yet ethical concerns loom. A 2025 study by Amity University warned:

“AI-generated aesthetics challenge traditional modes of design expression and raise unresolved questions about authorship, originality, and cultural integrity.”

To address these risks, the proposed F.A.S.H.I.O.N. AI Ethics Framework suggests principles like Fair Credit, Authentic Context, and Human-Centric Design. These frameworks aim to preserve dignity in design, ensuring that beauty remains not just a product of data, but a reflection of cultural care.

The Algorithm in the Boutique: Two Journeys, Two Futures

In 2030, a woman enters the Louis Vuitton flagship on the Champs-Élysées. The store AI recognizes her walk, gestures, and biometric stress markers. Her past purchases, Instagram aesthetic, and travel itineraries have been quietly parsed. She’s shown a handbag designed for her demographic cluster—and a speculative “future bag” generated from global sentiment. Augmented reality mirrors shift its hue based on fashion chatter.

Across town, a man steps into Hermès on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. No AI overlay. No predictive styling. He waits while a human advisor retrieves three options from the back room. Scarcity is preserved. Opacity enforced. Beauty demands patience, loyalty, and reverence.

Responsive elegance personalizes. Timeless restraint universalizes. One anticipates. The other withholds.

Ethical Horizons: Data, Desire, and Dignity

As AI saturates luxury, the ethical stakes grow sharper:

Privacy or Surveillance? Luxury thrives on intimacy, but when biometric and behavioral data feed design, where is the line between service and intrusion? A handbag tailored to your mood may delight—but what if that mood was inferred from stress markers you didn’t consent to share?

Cultural Reverence or Algorithmic Appropriation? Algorithms trained on global aesthetics may inadvertently exploit indigenous or marginalized designs without context or consent. This risk echoes past critiques of fast fashion—but now at algorithmic speed, and with the veneer of personalization.

Crafted Scarcity or Generative Excess? Hermès’ commitment to craft-based scarcity stands in contrast to AI’s generative abundance. What happens to luxury when it becomes infinitely reproducible? Does the aura of exclusivity dissolve when beauty is just another output stream?

Philosopher Byung-Chul Han, in The Transparency Society (2012), warns:

“When everything is transparent, nothing is erotic.”

Han’s critique of transparency culture reminds us that the erotic—the mysterious, the withheld—is eroded by algorithmic exposure. In luxury, opacity is not inefficiency—it is seduction. The challenge for fashion is to preserve mystery in an age that demands metrics.

Fashion’s New Frontier


Fashion has always been a mirror of its time. In the age of artificial intelligence, that mirror becomes a sensor—reading cultural mood, forecasting desire, and generating beauty optimized for relevance. Generative design and predictive styling are not just innovations; they are provocations. They reconfigure creativity, decentralize authorship, and introduce a new aesthetic logic.

Yet as fashion becomes increasingly responsive, it risks losing its capacity for rupture—for the unexpected, the irrational, the sublime. When beauty is calibrated to what is already emerging, it may cease to surprise. The algorithm designs for resonance, not resistance. It reflects desire, but does it provoke it?

The contrast between LVMH and Hermès reveals two futures. One immersive, scalable, and optimized; the other opaque, ritualistic, and elusive. These are not just business strategies—they are aesthetic philosophies. They ask us to choose between relevance and reverence, between immediacy and depth.

As AI evolves, fashion must ask deeper questions. Can responsive elegance coexist with emotional gravity? Can algorithmic chic retain the aura of the original? Will future designers be curators of machine imagination—or custodians of human mystery?

Perhaps the most urgent question is not what AI can do, but what it should be allowed to shape. Should it design garments that reflect our moods, or challenge them? Should it optimize beauty for engagement, or preserve it as a site of contemplation? In a world increasingly governed by prediction, the most radical gesture may be to remain unpredictable.

The future of fashion may lie in hybrid forms—where machine cognition enhances human intuition, and where data-driven relevance coexists with poetic restraint. Designers may become philosophers of form, guiding algorithms not toward efficiency, but toward meaning.

In this new frontier, fashion is no longer just what we wear. It is how we think, how we feel, how we respond to a world in flux. And in that response—whether crafted by hand or generated by code—beauty must remain not only timely, but timeless. Not only visible, but visceral. Not only predicted, but profoundly imagined.

THIS ESSAY WAS WRITTEN AND EDITED UTILIZING AI

THE NEW YORKER MAGAZINE – AUGUST 25, 2025 PREVIEW

A child draws on a man's tattooed arm.

THE NEW YORKER MAGAZINE: The latest cover features ‘Sergio García Sánchez and Lola Moral’s “Artist in Training”

Pam Bondi’s Power Play

Donald Trump now has the Attorney General he always wanted—an ally willing to harness the law to enable his agenda. By Ruth Marcus

Trump Sends in the National Guard

Is the President’s takeover of D.C. a dry run for other cities? By Margaret Talbot

Bill Belichick Goes Back to School

Can the legendary former Patriots coach transform U.N.C. football? By Paige Williams

The Family Fallout of DNA Surprises

Through genetic testing, millions of Americans are estimated to have discovered that their parents aren’t who they thought. The news has upended relationships and created a community looking for answers. By Jennifer Wilson