Tag Archives: Food

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE – SEPTEMBER 24, 2025

Cover of Country Life 24 September 2025

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE: The latest issue features St Michael’s Mount at low tide.

The roads less travelled

Now you see them, now you don’t: Roger Morgan-Grenville treads the ephemeral sea paths of Britain, those often-ancient routes at the mercy of the tides

Spreads from Life Country Life 24 September 2025

A stitch in time

Deborah Nicholls-Lee unearths Mr Darcy’s shirt, Bertie Wooster’s dressing gown and Poldark’s tricorn hat in a fascinating trawl through the Cosprop wardrobes

Property market

A quartet of significant West Country houses is seeking buyers, reports Penny Churchill

Properties of the week

A Devon longhouse, Cornwall cottage and Somerset thatch catch Arabella Youens’s eye

Spreads from Life Country Life 24 September 2025

When your art is in the right place

To whom do the experts turn for the best in framing, restoring and valuing? Leading art and antique dealers open their little black books for Amelia Thorpe

Leslie MacLeod Miller’s favourite painting

The impresario picks a portrait of a 19th-century singing sensation

Country-house treasures

The fortunes of a Cumbrian castle rest with the ‘Luck of Muncaster’, finds John Goodall

A Regency prospect

Steven Brindle looks at the remarkable story behind a fine Georgian creation — Samuel Wyatt’s Belmont House in Kent

Spreads from Life Country Life 24 September 2025

The legacy

Emma Hughes toasts the genius of Dennis Potter, the man who gave us the darkly comic and gritty Singing Detective

Beginning to see the light

John Lewis-Stempel and his dogs are up with the skylark to witness the dawning of a spectacular September day

Luxury

Amie Elizabeth White on tartan, tweed, timepieces and fruity jewels, plus a few of Victoria Pendleton’s favourite things

Interiors

Amelia Thorpe admires the makeover of a guest bedroom at a Scottish country house and picks the best bedside tables

Spreads from Life Country Life 24 September 2025

Plum advice

Charles Quest-Ritson shares his favourite forms of plum, gage, mirabelle and damson from the 20-plus varieties he has grown

Slightly foxed

Second-hand bookshops can be a goldmine of gardening wisdom, says John Hoyland

Scale model

David Profumo is transported back to childhood by the spiny, swashbuckling stickleback

Travel

Mark Hedges takes a break from reality on Bryher, a heather-clad haven in the Isles of Scilly

Arts & antiques

Art dealer John Martin tells Carla Passino why he can never part with a panel he stumbled upon by Nigerian sculptor Asiru Olatunde

A Deep-Dish Dive Into The U.S. Obsession With Pizza

By Michael Cummins, Editor, Intellicurean

We argue over thin crust versus deep-dish, debate the merits of a New York slice versus a Detroit square, and even defend our favorite topping combinations. Pizza is more than just a meal; it’s a cultural cornerstone of American life. Yet, behind this simple, beloved food lies a vast and powerful economic engine—an industry generating tens of billions of dollars annually. This essay explores the dual nature of America’s pizza landscape, a world where tech-driven corporate giants and passionate independent artisans coexist. We will dive into the macroeconomic trends that fuel its growth, the fine-grained struggles of small business owners, and the cultural diversity that makes pizza a definitive pillar of the American culinary experience.

Craft, Community, and the Independent Spirit

The true heart of the pizza industry lies in the human element, particularly within the world of independent pizzerias. While national chains like Domino’s and Pizza Hut rely on standardized processes and massive marketing budgets, local shops thrive on the passion of their owners, the skill of their pizzaiolos, and their deep connection to the community. This dedication to craft is a defining characteristic. For many, like the co-founders of New York City’s Zeno’s Pizza, making pizza is not just a business; it’s a craft rooted in family tradition and personal expertise. This meticulous attention to detail, from sourcing high-quality ingredients to the 48-hour fermentation of their dough, translates directly into a superior and unique product that fosters a fiercely loyal local following.

Running an independent pizzeria is an exercise in juggling passion with the practicalities of business. Owners must navigate the complexities of staffing, operations, and the ever-present pressure of online reviews. One successful owner shared his philosophy on building a strong team: instead of hiring many part-time employees, he created a smaller, dedicated crew with more hours and responsibility. This approach made employees feel more “vested” in the company, leading to higher morale, a greater sense of ownership, and significantly lower turnover in an industry notorious for its transient workforce. Another owner emphasized efficiency through cross-training, teaching every staff member to perform multiple roles from the kitchen to the front counter. This not only ensured smooth operations during peak hours but also empowered employees with new skills, making them more valuable assets to the business.

Customer relationships are equally crucial for independent shops. Instead of fearing negative online feedback, many owners see it as a direct line of communication with their customer base. A common practice is for an owner to insist that customers with a bad experience contact him directly, offering to “make it right” with a new order or a refund. This personal touch builds trust and often turns a negative situation into a positive one, demonstrating how successful independent pizzerias become true community hubs, built on a foundation of trust and personal connection. These businesses are more than just restaurants; they are local institutions that sponsor Little League teams, host fundraisers, and serve as gathering places that strengthen the fabric of their neighborhoods.

Macroeconomic Trends and Profitability

The macroeconomic picture of the pizza industry tells a story of immense scale and consistent growth. The U.S. pizza market alone generates over $46.9 billion in annual sales and is supported by a vast network of more than 75,000 pizzerias. To put that into perspective, the American pizza market is larger than the entire GDP of some small countries. This financial robustness isn’t just impressive on its own; it gains perspective when you realize that pizza holds its own against other major food categories like burgers and sandwiches, often dominating the quick-service restaurant sector. This success is underpinned by a powerful and reliable engine: constant consumer demand.

The U.S. pizza market alone generates over $46.9 billion in annual sales and is supported by a vast network of more than 75,000 pizzerias. — PMQ Pizza Magazine, “Pizza Power Report 2024”

A staggering 13% of Americans eat pizza on any given day, and a significant portion of the population enjoys it at least once a week. This high-frequency demand is driven by a broad and loyal consumer base that spans all demographics, but is particularly strong among younger consumers. For Gen Z and Millennials, pizza’s customizability, shareability, and convenience make it a perfect choice for nearly any occasion, from a quick solo lunch to a communal dinner with friends. The rise of digital ordering platforms and the optimization of delivery logistics have only amplified this demand, making it easier than ever for consumers to satisfy their craving.

The economic viability of a pizzeria is built on a simple yet powerful formula: inherent profitability. The cost of goods sold (COGS) for a pizza is remarkably low compared to many other dishes. The core ingredients—flour, tomatoes, and cheese—are relatively inexpensive commodities. While the quality of these ingredients can vary, the basic ratio of cost to sale price remains highly favorable. This low cost allows operators to achieve high profit margins, even at competitive price points. This profitability is further enhanced by pizza’s versatility. Operators can easily create a vast menu of specialty and premium pies by adding a variety of toppings, from artisanal meats and cheeses to fresh vegetables, all of which can be sold at a higher margin. This flexibility is a key reason why pizzerias are often cited as one of the most profitable types of restaurants to operate, providing a solid foundation for both national chains and independent startups.

Chains vs. Independents and Regional Identity

The enduring appeal of pizza in America is largely due to its remarkable diversity. The concept of “pizza” is not monolithic; it encompasses a wide array of regional styles, each with its own loyal following and distinct characteristics. The great pizza debate often revolves around the choice between thick and thin crusts, from the foldable, iconic New York-style slice to the hearty, inverted layers of a Chicago deep-dish. Other popular styles include the cracker-thin St. Louis-style, known for its Provel cheese blend, and the thick, crispy-edged Detroit-style, which has seen a recent surge in popularity. Each style represents a unique chapter in American food history and reflects the local culture from which it was born.

This diversity is reflected in the market dynamics, characterized by a fascinating duality: the coexistence of powerful national chains and a dense network of independent pizzerias. Dominant chains like Domino’s, with over 7,000 U.S. locations and $9 billion in annual sales, and Pizza Hut, with more than 6,700 locations and $5.6 billion in sales, leverage economies of scale and sophisticated technology to dominate the market. Their success is built on brand recognition, supply chain efficiency, and a focus on seamless digital innovation and rapid delivery.

In contrast, independents thrive by leaning into their unique identity, focusing on high-quality ingredients, traditional techniques, and a strong connection to their local communities. This dynamic is particularly evident in cities with rich pizza histories. In New York, the independent scene is a constellation of legendary establishments, from the historical Lombardi’s in Little Italy—often credited as America’s first pizzeria—to modern classics like Joe’s Pizza in Greenwich Village and L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn. These shops are not just restaurants; they are destinations. Chicago’s famous deep-dish culture is built on a foundation of iconic independent pizzerias like Lou Malnati’s and Giordano’s, which have since grown into regional chains but maintain a local identity forged by decades of tradition. Similarly, Detroit’s burgeoning pizza scene is defined by beloved institutions such as Buddy’s Pizza and Loui’s Pizza, which were instrumental in popularizing the city’s unique rectangular, thick-crust style. These places represent the soul of their cities, each telling a unique story through their distinctive pies.

The Fine-Grained Economics of a New York Slice

While the national picture is one of robust growth, the hyper-local reality, especially in a city like New York, is a constant battle for survival. As the owners of Zeno’s Pizza shared on the Bloomberg “Odd Lots” podcast, they saw an opportunity to open their new shop in a “pizza desert” in Midtown East after the pandemic forced many established places to close. They recognized that while the East Village is a “knife fight” of competition with pizzerias on every block, their location was a green space for a new business. This kind of strategic thinking is essential for anyone trying to enter the market.

The initial capital investment for a new pizzeria is a daunting obstacle. As discussed on the podcast, the Zeno’s team noted that a 1,000-square-foot quick-serve restaurant requires a minimum of $400,000, and more likely $500,000 to $600,000, in working capital before the doors can even open. Much of this goes to costly, specialized equipment: a single pizza oven can cost anywhere from $32,000 and is now up to $45,000, and a commercial cheese shredder can run $5,000. Beyond the equipment, the build-out costs are substantial, including commercial-grade plumbing, electrical work, specialized ventilation systems, and a multitude of city permits. These expenses, along with supply chain issues that led to back-ordered equipment and construction delays, mean the payback period for a restaurant has stretched from a pre-COVID average of 18 months to a new normal of three years.

The historic rule of thumb for a pizzeria’s cost structure was a balanced 30/30/30/10 split—30% for fixed costs (rent, utilities), 30% for labor, 30% for food costs, and a 10% profit margin. Today, that model has been shattered. — Bloomberg’s ‘Odd Lots’ podcast

Pizza’s profitability, while historically strong, is also under immense pressure. The historic rule of thumb for a pizzeria’s cost structure was a balanced 30/30/30/10 split—30% for fixed costs (rent, utilities), 30% for labor, 30% for food costs, and a 10% profit margin. Today, that model has been shattered. Labor costs, for example, have ballooned to 45% of a restaurant’s budget due to rising minimum wages and a tight labor market, while insurance premiums have climbed by 20-30%. This leaves very little room for a profit margin, forcing owners to find creative solutions to survive.

To counter these rising costs, pizzerias are being forced to innovate their business models. The Zeno’s co-founders noted that they are now pushing their prices higher to a premium product segment, relying on fresh, high-quality ingredients and a meticulous process like a 48-hour dough fermentation that makes the pizza healthier and less heavy. This strategy allows them to justify a higher price point to a discerning customer base. They also actively seek new sales by cold-calling companies for catering orders, a crucial part of their business that offers a higher ticket price and a predictable revenue stream.

The increasing use of third-party delivery services adds another layer of complexity to the financial landscape. While these platforms offer a wider reach, they take a significant cut, often charging up to 20%, plus additional fees for delivery. To make this work, pizzerias are forced to list prices on these platforms that are 15% higher than their in-house menu. The owners noted that the post-pandemic cap on these fees is expiring, which will place even more pressure on an already-tight profit margin. The decision to partner with these services becomes a difficult trade-off between increased exposure and reduced profitability.

Conclusion: A Lasting Legacy for America’s Favorite Food

The story of pizza in America is a compelling narrative of resilience, innovation, and cultural integration. It is a tale of a massive, multi-billion-dollar industry that thrives on both the hyper-efficient, tech-driven operations of its largest chains and the passion-fueled, community-centric efforts of its independent artisans.

Will this obsession last? All evidence points to a resounding yes. Pizza is not a fleeting trend; it is a fundamental part of the American diet and cultural landscape. Its unique ability to be a family meal, a late-night snack, a celebratory dish, and an affordable comfort food ensures its enduring relevance. The industry’s financial robustness, driven by constant consumer demand and inherent profitability, provides a sturdy foundation for its future.

So, how will the pizza category keep reinvigorating itself? By continually adapting and reflecting the evolving tastes of the public. This reinvigoration will come from multiple fronts:

  • Regional Innovation: The discovery and popularization of new regional styles, like the recent surge in Detroit-style pizza, will continue to capture the public’s imagination.
  • Creative Toppings: As palates become more sophisticated, chefs will experiment with bolder, more diverse ingredients, pushing the boundaries of what a “pizza” can be.
  • Technological Integration: The adoption of cutting-edge technology will continue to streamline operations, enhance delivery logistics, and provide new, seamless ordering experiences.
  • The Artisanal Revival: The push for high-quality, artisanal products and a return to traditional techniques by independent pizzerias will offer a crucial counterpoint to the efficiency of the national chains, ensuring that pizza remains a craft as well as a commodity.

The challenges of rising costs and competitive pressures are real, but the industry has proven its ability to adapt and thrive. The story of pizza in America reminds us that a business can still thrive on a foundation of passion and community. It’s a timeless testament to the power of a simple, delicious idea—one that will continue to unite and divide us, slice by delicious slice.

This essay was written and edited utilizing AI

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE – JULY 16, 2025 PREVIEW

Cover of Country Life 16 July 2025

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE: The latest issue features the sustainability special, looking at the animals who are saving our landscape, solar power, and the best of the Proms.

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

Give us, this day, our sustainable daily bread

From eating better-quality meat to buying seasonal and local produce, Jane Wheatley suggests how we can shop smart to aid the environment

Solar, so good

Banks of solar panels covering farmland have sparked much opposition, but, with local input, could they be a force for good, wonders William Kendall

No job too big

Kate Green trumpets the native breeds best suited to grazing Britain’s green and pleasant land, as our farmers walk a fine line balancing food production and biodiversity recovery

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

‘It’s terrifying, but also an absolute dream’

Henrietta Bredin talks to Errollyn Wallen, Master of the King’s Music, about composing in a lighthouse and going on stage

Liz Fenwick’s favourite painting

The novelist picks a trailblazing nude by the first female RA

A passion for plasterwork

John Goodall discovers a neo-Classical delight when he takes a peek behind the unassuming frontage of a Swansea terrace

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

The legacy

Kate Green admires Rachel Carson’s seminal Silent Spring

A wing and a prayer

Hannah Bourne-Taylor extols the importance of feeding over the ‘hungry gap’ to help our beleaguered farmland birds

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

Country Life’s Little Green Book

We all want to shop well, but how to decipher the marketing? Madeleine Silver picks a handful of brands that do what they say

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

The good stuff

Let those bangles jangle, urges Hetty Lintell, with her bracelet pick

Interiors

Arabella Youens admires the rich refurbishment of a Scottish fishing lodge and laments the scarcity of trusty English oak

True grit

Gravel gardens are becoming ever more popular, but what are the secrets to making them a success, wonders Non Morris

Spreads from Country Life 16 July 2025

Winging it

The ‘flying barn door’ that is the magnificent white-tailed eagle is returning to our shores. Mark Cocker, for one, is very glad

Arts & antiques

A lost technique is being revived by a Swiss sculptor, as pioneer-ing women of science are celebrated, reveals Carla Passino

War and peace

Tom Young’s intricate, powerful paintings capture the beauty and the heartbreak of Lebanon. Octavia Pollock meets him

All the world on one stage

Michael Billington finds Ralph Fiennes at his brooding best as Sir David Hare’s engrossing new play premieres in Bath

Country Life Magazine – March 19, 2025 Preview

Cover of Country Life 19 March 2025

COUNTRY LIFE MAGAZINE (March 19, 2025): The cover of Country Life’s 19 March 2025 issue, featuring Wollerton Old Hall Garden in Shropshire,

Building on a dream

Nicola Taylor tells Tiffany Daneff how she ‘picked up a spade and carried on’ where her father left off in a Northamptonshire wood

It starts with a seed

Is there anything more satisfying than growing a plant from seed? Find out how with John Hoyland

The ground crew

Christopher Stocks meets the unsung heroes and heroines of horticulture who keep Britain’s best gardens in mint condition

gardener

Shocking pinks

Tilly Ware recommends a trip to Cornwall’s Calamazag nursery to pick up the perfect pinks

United colours of Rolls-Royce

Toby Keel finds the British marque making a bold, banana-yellow statement as he gets behind the wheel of the new Series II Ghost

A uniform approach

Never try to appear fashionable or attempt to look young — Dylan Jones shares his golden rules on how to dress in your sixties

Hare’s to you

Murderous, mad and magnificent: the hare is a fascinating figure in art, discovers Michael Prodger

hares
Spreads from Country Life 19 March 2025

Sir James MacMillan’s favourite painting

The composer chooses a bold and moving religious painting

The architect for me

In the first of two articles, Clive Aslet examines the double act of architect Sir Edwin Lutyens and client Reginald McKenna

Take it with a pinch of salt

Deborah Nicholls-Lee examines the salt-loving plants coming into their own in a changing climate

A night on the tiles

Harry Pearson finds drunken may-hem in the history of dominoes

dominoes

The good stuff

A vase is a Mother’s Day gift that keeps on giving, says Hetty Lintell

Interiors

Amelia Thorpe applauds the updating of a Wiltshire sitting room, as Arabella Youens asks: are you sitting comfortably?

Sour to the people

Fish and chips wouldn’t be fish and chips without a glug of malt vinegar, argues Rob Crossan

chips

Pho sure

Asian noodle soup tempts Tom Parker Bowles with its thrilling symphony of fragrant flavours

Foraging

Handle with care when picking hogweed and cow parsley for the kitchen, warns John Wright

Arts & antiques

Carlo Passino throws the spotlight on the engaging drawings of literary legend Victor Hugo

Directors take centre stage

Shakespeare and Chekhov are given an imaginative new spin — and Michael Billington approves

And much more

Barron’s Magazine — February 10, 2025 Preview

Magazine - Latest Issue - Barron's

BARRON’S MAGAZINE (February 8, 2025): The latest issue features ‘Trump Tumult’….

Trump 2.0 Is Shock and Awe. What Wall Street Will Stand For.

President Trump is taking aim at China, DEI, wind power, and more, but he isn’t targeting mainstream business. If he goes too far, will the mark

Musk Loves Wreaking Havoc, Whatever the Cost. Trump May Have to Pay the Bill.

Elon Musk’s aggressive approach to DOGE’s cost-cutting efforts could become a liability for President Donald Trump.

6 Steps to Raising Money-Savvy Children

From preschool through adulthood, there are many opportunities to help children develop healthy financial habits.

Younger Investors Like Options and Crypto. They Might Be Sorry.

Members of Gen Z are starting their investing journey at younger ages than older generations did.Long read

Private Equity Is Booming. Does It Live Up to the Hype?

The $15 trillion market for private assets is thriving. What to know if you want to dip in.4 min read

The New York Times Magazine-January 19, 2025

Current cover

THE NEW YORK TIMES MAGAZINE (January 18, 2025): The The 1.19.25 Issue features Jennifer Kahn on chronic pain; Moises Velasquez-Manoff on raw milk; Alia Malek on Syrians in Turkey; and more.

Chronic Pain Is a Hidden Epidemic. It’s Time for a Revolution.

As many as two billion people suffer from it — including me. Can science finally bring us relief?

5 Things We Know About Chronic Pain

After developing chronic pain, I started looking into what scientists do — and still don’t — understand about the disease. Here is what I learned.By Jennifer Kahn

Some Raw Truths About Raw Milk

Despite the serious risks of drinking it, a growing movement — including the potential health secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. — claims it has benefits. Should we take them more seriously?By Moises Velasquez-Manoff

Syrians in Turkey Agonize Over a Return Home

With the Assad regime out of power, millions weigh the decision to go back to their war-torn country.By Alia Malek

The Guardian Weekly – January 3, 2025 Preview

THE GUARDIAN WEEKLY (December 31, 2024): Trump v the world; Global leaders pivot to face Trump 2.0. Plus South Korea latest.

Anticipation for the promise a new year brings is, in 2025, heavily tempered by trepidation about what Donald Trump’s second term will look like. For the big story of our first edition of the new year, diplomatic editor Patrick Wintour surveys how the world from Moscow to London, Tehran to Beijing and Brussels to Kyiv is gearing up for 20 January. Whether they be populists or hard-headed foreign-policy realists, it is clear that leaders are prepared to talk back to Trump in his language of power. Equally true is that despite the incoming White House administration’s preference to concentrate on America first domestic issues, the war in Ukraine, conflict in the Middle East and tensions with China force themselves to the forefront of Trump’s agenda and are unlikely to be solved in either his first day, week or month in office. As the year unfolds, Guardian Weekly will continue to help you make sense of Trump’s return and the biggest global issues of 2025.

Spotlight | Air disaster compounds South Korea’s troubles
A major fatal air accident is a tragedy for any nation but as Justin McCurry and Raphael Rashid report, the Jeju Air crash has come against a continued background of political division and instability.

Science | Time’s paradox
A timely exploration by Miriam Frankel of recent research has found out about the factors that make life drag or fly by. And, importantly, what you can do to help reset your inner clock to a more satisfactory tempo.

Features | The millennium bug that didn’t bite us
A quarter of a century ago, doomsayers thought the world would end as we clicked over to a new century due to malfunctioning computer systems. But, Tom Faber reports, the much-feared bug was always going to be a damp squib.

Opinion | Uneasy parallels between the McCarthy era and Trump 2.0
Richard Sennett reflects on how postwar paranoia about the ‘enemy within’ changed his family and what it can teach Americans when a similarly anti-liberal administration is in power.

Culture | Another side of Bob Dylan
Bob Dylan shuns discussion of his early years, so how did James Mangold, the director of a new biopic, and his creative team approach their script – and what happened when Dylan asked for a meeting? Alexis Petridis finds out.


The New York Times — Sunday, December 15, 2024

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Syria Shudders as Assad’s Prison Atrocities Come Into the Light

At the country’s most notorious prison, Syrians confront their worst fears: that they will never know what happened to the loved ones who disappeared.

South Korea’s President Is Impeached After Martial Law Crisis

Some members of President Yoon Suk Yeol’s own party helped remove him from office. But the political uncertainty is far from over.

What Ever Happened to the Lady Jaguars?

When we met them a dozen years ago, they were teenagers in trouble, playing for a basketball team that always lost. Did they find a way to win at life?

Gas Could Mean Billions for Indigenous People in Canada. Some Fear a Cost.

New export terminals along the rugged Pacific coastline have reignited a generations-old debate over identity and environmental stewardship.

The New York Times — Thursday, Dec. 12, 2024

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How U.S. Firms Battled a Government Crackdown to Keep Tech Sales to China

An intense struggle has unfolded in Washington between companies and officials over where to draw the line on selling technology to China.

Joy Buoys Syria’s First Friday Prayers Since Assad Ouster, but Hardships Loom

In an impoverished, war-ravaged country, the first prayers after the fall of a brutal regime drew jubilant crowds, even in areas seen as regime strongholds.

The Fall of al-Assad Quickly Infuses Europe’s Debate Over Asylum

Nearly a million Syrians in Germany alone have made new lives. But after the fall of Bashar al-Assad, some politicians across the continent have suggested that refugees could return home.

McKinsey to Pay $650 Million in Opioid Settlement With Justice Department

A former senior partner will also plead guilty to obstruction of justice after destroying company documents.

The New York Times — Thursday, Dec. 12, 2024

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Syria’s New Leaders Balance Huge Struggles Amid Disorder

The rebels who seized control called for foreign help in prosecuting atrocities, while trying to restore order in a fractured country.

Power, Intimidation and the Resurrection of Trump’s Support for Hegseth

The president-elect became convinced that letting Pete Hegseth fail would set off a feeding frenzy among senators. What followed was a MAGA swarm that helped salvage his bid, at least for now.

Recent Immigration Surge Has Been Largest in U.S. History

Under President Biden, more than two million immigrants per year have entered, government data shows.

The Gold Rush at the Heart of a Civil War

Heavily destroyed streets.

Famine and ethnic cleansing stalk Sudan. Yet the gold trade is booming, enriching generals and propelling the fight.