Tag Archives: The Times and The Sunday Times

Travel & Culture In Spain: Salvador Dali’s Figueres

The Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres
The Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres

The Times and The Sunday Times (December 10, 2023) Inside Salvador Dalí’s childhood home — and his old haunts. Our writer visits an immersive new museum at the artist’s striking childhood home in Figueres and takes a tour of his favourite spots in northeastern Spain

This northeasterly nook of Catalonia’s Costa Brava, between the Pyrenees to the north and the Mediterranean to the south, was the landscape that Dalí called his “ongoing inspiration” and is a recurring motif throughout his work.

While the Casa Natal Dalí took me on a tour of Dalí’s life, its near neighbour, the gigantic Dalí Theatre-Museum (£15; salvador-dali.org), just five minutes’ walk away, was designed by the maestro himself. It opened in 1974 and showcases his style at its most eccentric, not to say egocentric.

With its pink façade and giant white eggs on its roof, like decorations on a cake, this is where you’ll find not only the Mae West “lips” sofa, but also numerous grandiose paintings and drawings, trompe l’oeils and painted ceilings — as well as Dalí’s tomb in the crypt.

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Reviews: The 12 Best Art Books Of 2023 (The Times)

12 best art books of 202312 best art books of 2023
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The Times and The Sunday Times (November 24, 2023): Lose yourself among lily pads, potbellied Dutch merchants and Venetian canals. Laura Freeman and Waldemar Januszczak curate the finest of this year’s art books, taking in Monet, Picasso, Gwen John and more

12 Best Art Books Of 2023

Monet: The Restless Vision by Jackie Wullschläger

In his eighties, Claude Monet was spotted by a younger artist, “old but still very handsome”, wrapped in a sumptuous fur, sitting on top of a dyke “in a bitter west wind which ruffled his long white beard, mingling it with the foam of the waves”. This transporting biography by the Financial Times’s art critic Jackie Wullschläger paints the impressionist as a man for all seasons, out in the dawn and the dusk and the snow, obsessed, possessed, with capturing the fleeting effects of light, shade and water, calm as millpond or whipped up by a storm. Chocolate box? Jamais! Monet mounted the barricades of modern art, revolutionising the way the world could be seen and painted. A book for art-lovers — and for gardeners too. Art and literature, Monet proclaimed, were all humbug. “There’s nothing but the earth.” Laura Freeman

All the Beauty in the World: A Museum Guard’s Adventures in Life, Loss and Art by Patrick Bringley

Who would have thought that the outstanding art book of the year would be written not by a curator or an art historian or even an artist — but by a museum guard? For ten years Patrick Bringley worked at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, directing visitors to the Islamic collections and watching out for angry protestors. It turned out to be a remarkably fruitful experience. Bringley weaves the story of a personal tragedy involving his sick brother with startling insights into museum life and — most impressively — into the great art in the Met’s collection. Waldemar Januszczak

Looking at Picasso by Pepe Karmel

If you have been living under a rock in 2023, you will not have noticed that this year was the 50th anniversary of the death of Picasso. The rest of us couldn’t avoid it. Countless exhibitions, events and books commemorated the occasion, but this was the most useful. Focusing on the art rather than the biography of the man, it’s a generous and sensitive text with brilliant illustrations. WJ

Pauline Boty: British Pop Art’s Sole Sister by Marc Kristal

Pauline Boty was “the Wimbledon Bardot”, “an ice-cream of a girl” and by her own mocking, ironic reckoning, “a happy, dumb blonde”. She was so much more than that, as this fizzing biography shows. Meet Boty the Sixties It girl, pop artist, voice-of-a-generation broadcaster and “anti-ugly” campaigner against hideous postwar development. Marc Kristal gives you the crumbling studios of the Royal College of Art, the creative squalor of Notting Hill bedsitters and the thrill of finding your feet (in knee-high boots) in swinging London. Boty died appallingly young, but her life was no tragedy. It was full of mischief, provocation and promise. This book brings Boty to life, painting, protesting and dancing the miniskirted twist. LF

Venice: City of Pictures by Martin Gayford

Venice isn’t just the most painted city in the world, it is probably the most written about too. Finding a fresh angle from which to view it is a challenge. Gayford’s answer is to understand the city and its history through the splendid and varied art it has inspired. Packed with potted histories and informed anecdotes, this is a tome to pack on a visit to La Serenissima. WJ


Giacometti in Paris by Michael Peppiatt

Alberto Giacometti used to claim that really he would have liked to carve and cast voluptuous women such as Marilyn Monroe. “The more I tried to make them broader, the narrower they got.” Giacometti’s beanpole people became icons of 20th-century art and Michael Peppiatt’s compelling portrait cuts to the core of the sculptor’s “strange life and his stranger fame”. Giacometti’s Paris studio is a character in its own right: a filthy lair filled with the most extraordinary figures and fragments, with a leaking roof, a tree growing up through the floor and a local fox given the run of the place. Appalling and fascinating. You’ll never look at a Giacometti the same way. LF

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Culture: In The Footsteps Of Poets In Ronda, Spain

A horse-drawn carriage in Ronda
A horse-drawn carriage in Ronda

“I have searched everywhere for the city of dreams,” he wrote after wandering far from Paris to overcome writers’ block, “and found it here, in Ronda.”

German poet Rainer Maria Rilke (1913)

The Times and The Sunday Times (October 15, 2023) – Walking in the footsteps of poets on a new cultural trip, James Stewart takes a wander from Ronda and gets spectacular scenery and ancient traditions all to himself.

Rupit
Rupit

Teetering at the edge of the Tajo river gorge, Ronda, 90 minutes’ drive west from Malaga, remains the most spectacular urban setting in Europe. Its cat’s cradle of white streets is haunted by the ghosts of Moorish princes, soundtracked by the strum of guitars and the tinkle of fountains.

The Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park
The Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park

If you’re in the mood for romance, nowhere in Spain comes close, Ernest Hemingway reckoned. He’s still right, so long as you’re happy to share your precious moment with massed day-trippers from the Costa del Sol. Expect visitor numbers to grow again when a £1.1 million suspended gorge walk, the Camino del Desfiladero del Tajo designed by the architect behind Malaga’s Caminito del Rey, opens later this year.

Even so, what everyone is really coming to Ronda for – to inland Andalusia – is Old Spain. You won’t find it written on signposts but, like the crackle of duende during a flamenco concert, you’ll know it when you experience it. It’s the country of pueblos blancos and half-remembered battles and scenery of savage beauty; the one that attracted Grand Tour visitors such as Disraeli and Irving long before anyone had thought of the Costa del Sol.

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Travel: A Food & Cycling Tour Of Northern Ireland

The Times and The Sunday Times (September 22, 2023) – Embark on a captivating 150-mile cycling journey with Simon Parker as he pedals through the scenic landscapes of Northern Ireland. From the rain-soaked back roads of County Down to the lush orchards of County Armagh, this adventure offers more than just picturesque views.

Discover why Armagh is dubbed the ‘Orchard of Ireland,’ and learn about its unique Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, putting it on par with renowned products like Parma ham and champagne. Experience the tranquility of Strangford Lough, the British Isles’ largest sea inlet, and delve into its rich marine life that supplies some of the UK’s finest restaurants.

At Scopers in Dundrum, feast on fast food reimagined with locally-sourced, sustainable produce. This journey is not just a feast for the eyes but also for the palate, showcasing Northern Ireland’s burgeoning food tourism scene.

Travel In France: What To See, Do & Eat In Bordeaux

10 reasons why Bordeaux is France's greatest city

The Times and The Sunday Times (September 18, 2023) – They used to call it La Belle Endormie: a sleeping beauty choked with traffic and blackened with soot. But now Bordeaux has woken up. Its long parades of 18th-century architecture have been sandblasted clean and its streets equipped with trams, cycle lanes and pedestrianized zones. Navigation is quick, the atmosphere unhurried and the food uncommonly good. And if you fancy following in the footsteps of King Charles, who will visit Bordeaux during this week’s short French state visit, you can even get there by train — take the Eurostar and a high-speed TGV; the total journey time from London is six hours.

What to do

The Chartrons quarter
The Chartrons quarter

● First, a little history. See that modest cathedral by the Hôtel de Ville? It’s where Eleanor of Aquitaine married King Louis VII of France. Later, in 1152, this feisty daughter of the southwest married again, in Poitiers, to the man who became King Henry II. In doing so she began a Bordelais involvement with England that didn’t end until 1453, when the French captured the city. Sure, a lot of water has flowed under the city’s bridges since then, but to be reminded of the connection is like discovering an unexpected cousin.

● Bordeaux profited handsomely from this attachment thanks to the English thirst for its wines. So continue this 650-year tradition with a riveting, self-guided audio tour of La Cité du Vin. The decanter-shaped landmark explores every aspect of global winemaking and wine culture, with one amusing omission: intoxication. The best bit is a display that wafts key wine flavours up your nose (£19; laciteduvin.com).

Coolest neighborhood

The northern district of Chartrons starts with palatial mansions and merchant warehouses, but shrinks to more modest proportions the further you wander from the city centre. Along the Rue Notre Dame it finds its mojo. Here, half a mile of browsable tiny shops sell must-have crockery, hand-made brushes and £2.50 fruit-crumble tartlets. Clambering vines deepen the sense that you’ve found the perfect French provincial street.

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Travel In Turkey: What To See, Do And Eat In Istanbul

The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia
The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia

The Times and The Sunday Times (September 11, 2023) – No exaggeration, Turkey’s rambling former capital, unspooling either side of the broad Bosphorus strait, is up there among the friendliest places you could visit for a long Euro-style weekend. Hospitality is in the Turks’ DNA, whatever you might think about the politics. The weather will always deliver too: midwinter has a snowy, Soviet chill that is super atmospheric, while spring and late summer into autumn turn the city into a giant urban resort, with bars, cafés and pool-trimmed hotels lining the endless waterfronts on Asian and European banks.

Karabatak
Karabatak

What to do

● What was founded as the Byzantine emperor Justinian’s 6th-century church has ballooned over aeons into the Hagia Sophia. Now a mosque, it’s a gargantuan spectacle. Enter and in the spiritual gloom a magnificence develops, daylight angling through windows in the galactic dome light years above. Remarkably there is even runic graffiti, carved by a mercenary from the Viking age (free; muze.gen.tr).

The Anadolu Kavagi village on the Bosphorus

● Allocate a day to explore Topkapi Palace, home of the Ottoman sultans built in 1459 by Mehmet the Conqueror, who grabbed Constantinople from the fading Byzantines. Chamber after chamber reveals military regalia and priceless gifts from dynasties as far away as China. The Bosphorus views are magnificent and the emerald lawns are made for lounging on (£20, includes harem access; muze.gen.tr).

● The Ecumenical Patriarch, spiritual leader of Eastern Orthodox Christians worldwide, resides at the Patriarchate of Constantinople, a serene neoclassical complex in Fener district, above the waters of the Golden Horn creek. Join global pilgrims in the glittery cathedral aisles and witness, perhaps, the divine liturgy or, later, vespers — black-clad, scented and seductively mystic (free; ec-patr.org).

● We associate art nouveau with Paris and Budapest, but in the twilight years of the Ottomans it flourished in Istanbul. Casa Botter (originally Botter Apartmani), built on Istiklal Caddesi at the turn of the 20th century for a tailor to Sultan Abdul Hamid, was the city’s first example. After decades of neglect it’s now a must-visit art gallery and, façade-wise, a real kooky looker, chiselled and Viennese-ornate (free; Instagram @casabotter).

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Sweden Travel: Biking & Canoeing On Lake Vänern

The Times and The Sunday Times (July 31, 2023) – Simon Parker saddles up for midnight sun, pine trees and cinnamon buns along a challenging 400-mile gravel bike route in West Sweden.

Lake Vänern is the largest lake in Sweden, the largest lake in the European Union and the third-largest lake in Europe after Ladoga and Onega in Russia.