Tag Archives: Europe

Road Trip To Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, Bodleian Library And The Radcliffe Camera

After a brisk walk through the Arlington Row, a very nice breakfast awaited us in The Swan dining room.

The drive to Oxford from Bibury is 30 miles, but expect traffic in the last 5 miles. Allow an hour to get parked in one of the many underground parking areas, such as the Gloucester Green.

Our first stop was the Ashmolean Museum, which was remarkably uncrowded at 9:30 am this Wednesday morning. We paid to see the special exhibit “Last Supper In Pompeii” and it was outstanding.

We then walked the remaining floors to view the incredible Renaissance and European Art exhibits including paintings, sculpture, ceramics and musical instruments

The three Stradivarius violins and one guitar, along with other priceless instruments were one of a kind holdings of this world class museum.

We walked over the Bodleian Library and purchased tour tickets for 1 pm. The we walked over to University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin and paid to climb the tower to view all of Oxford but especially the Radcliffe Camera.

No one should visit Oxford and not climb the tower. Spectacular is the only descriptor. We climbed back down and walked the streets nearby until it was time for the tour. Our guide was an amazing woman who studied history at Cambridge before falling in love with the Bodleian.

The history of Oxford University is centered around the 600+ year construction and evolution of its world famous library. A must see.

We walked over to the Christ Church Picture Gallery for a quick viewing and then had late lunch at The Bear, a classically old pub down a small alley.

Great day!

Driving The Cotswolds: Up To Stow-On-The-Wold, Bourton-On-The-Water & Bibury

Left The Painswick after a fine British breakfast (highlighted by fabulous, freshly made crumpets and a berry compote), we drove into a heavy rain toward Cirencester and the on to Bibury for a 3-night stay at The Swan Hotel.

The rain let up a bit so a walk of the village after checking in was next.

The rain resumed so we ducked into the Bibury Trout Farm cafe for a bottle of Rose wine and baked trout (directly across from The Swan.

Road trip time at 1:30 and a trip to Burford, “Gateway to the Cotswolds”.

Forbes has Burford listed as #6 best place to live in Europe.

The next stop was Stow-On-The-Wold, an ancient tub dating back to the Stone Age.

The finest brownie in the world (layered peanut butter, chocolate fudge) was waiting for us at Huffkins Bakery. That and an iced coffee is worth a flight to London and the drive to Stow.

A quick pull at The Porch House, which claims to be the oldest pub in England (dating to 947 AD), was an experience with beams that bang foreheads at 5’10”.

Bourton-On-The-Water was next up on the way back to Bibury.

A ten mile trip back to The Swan was directed through rolling countryside by the GPS. Lovely.

Into The Cotswolds: From The Roman Baths North To Painswick

A quiet night’s sleep was followed by a sumptuous breakfast downstairs at The Bird.

After checking out, we left bags in the car and walked into Bath via the Pulteney Bridge.

The Roman Baths site opened at 9 am today (Monday) and we took the self-guided tour with headset. It did not disappoint.

This is the finest example of a Roman Bath in the world and established Bath as a destination to visit from all over the Roman and Mediterranean world.

We then walked through the town and boarded a double deck bus to tour the rest of the city.

We left Bath and headed north into the Cotswolds. First stop was a quaint village called Castle Combe.

Lunch followed at The Salutation Inn, a pub just up the road.

The Finger Fish and BLT sandwiches on dark bread were amazing.

The final destination was Painswick where we were booked for the night at The Painswick, the 2016 Hotel of the Year in England as voted by The Telegraph in London. We arrived in a slight rain and found fires going downstairs and upstairs.

We finished with dinner in the hotel dining room. Order the Grouse with a Negroni.

Boomers In London: Day 3 – Kensington To Mayfair, Soho & Bloomsbury

After a great British breakfast, hopped on the Tube at Tower Hill and headed for the South Kensington station. Arrived at the Victoria & Albert Museum as it opened at 10.

The V&A has an amazing collection from all over the former British Empire, Europe and the United Kingdom.

We then walked into the Kensington Gardens, and visited the Diana, Princess of Wales Fountain. There was swim race taking place in The Serpentine.

We then visited the Serpentine Gallery before walking to the northeast corner of Hyde Park.

We walked along Oxford Street and headed south on South Molton to New Bond St. to visit the Saville Row tailors.

It was Open House London on Saturday so we toured Huntsman, Cad & The Dandy, Richard Anderson and Hidalgo Brothers

We then walked to Hatchard’s Bookstore and Fortnum & Mason.

A very fun small alcove awaited at Neal’s Yard in SoHo.

The last major stop was the British Museum in Bloomsbury.

Top Pubs In London: The Viaduct Tavern

After visiting a few pubs during the walk from Somerset House to St. Paul’s Cathedral, we fortunately came across The Viaduct Tavern. It is ground zero for fabulous Gin Drinks. We had two:

The Gin of the week, No. 209, served with grapefruit, thyme and Fever Tree Tonic. Amazing.

The second was a Monkey Tree 47 with nectarine garnish and Fever Tree. Outstanding.

The ambience was lively, the decor charming and the staff very friendly.

Oh, and the ice was chipped off a block of ice.

Destinations: Walk The Streets, Parks And Palaces Of Beethoven’s Vienna

From a Wall Street Journal online article:

Beethoven's Vienna WalkBeethoven moved nearly 70 times while living in Vienna. Two of his former homes are open to the public, and many more are marked with commemorative plaques.

High above Vienna’s historic center, at the edge of the hilly Vienna Woods, the city’s Beethoven Museum, is housed in a onetime bakery complex dating back to the late Middle Ages, with an 18th-century annex containing a small apartment where Beethoven spent the summer of 1802. While living here, he composed his tragic “Tempest” piano sonata and began work on his 3rd Symphony, the “Eroica.”

Where to Binge on Beethoven in Vienna - Wall Street Journal Sept 2019

Theater an der Wien - Beethoven's ViennaLUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN is as Viennese as apple strudel. Though born in Bonn, Germany in 1770, he moved to the Austrian capital when he was in his early 20s, and then spent the rest of his 56 years changing the course of Western music from the city on the Danube. A quirky, cantankerous celebrity in his own time, he premiered his groundbreaking symphonies and concertos in Vienna’s grand palaces, escaped the summer heat in what are now its sleepy suburbs, and moved around between dozens of supposedly squalid apartments that sprawl across much of the city.

To read more: https://www.wsj.com/articles/where-to-binge-on-beethoven-in-vienna-11568303745

Best Travel Shows: British Series “Travel Man” Is Helpful And Hilarious

From a New Yorker online article:

Travel Man PhotoOn “Travel Man,” Ayoade is fun to look at (snappy suits, thick-framed glasses, expression of amused diffidence) and fun to listen to. (Of a monastery turned hotel in Naples, he says, “As well as modish guff, like a rooftop pool and a spa, it retains attractive old shiz, like staircases dug into the hillside.”) His persona is warmly amused, broadly skeptical, and gently astringent—i.e., British. He’s not a joiner. His intros conclude with him saying, in that episode’s particular city and with that episode’s particular guest, “We’re here, but should we have come?” 

 

Travel Man: 48 Hours in . . .” is a British series in which the comedian, writer, actor, and director Richard Ayoade spends forty-eight hours in a city, accompanied by various friends—“some of the most available and affordable names in light ent,” as he puts it—and tells us about what to do there. “Mini-breaks are a swirling nebula of nonsense!” he says at the top of “Copenhagen,” during a brisk montage of him in Venice, Copenhagen, Vienna, and Moscow. “How can anyone go somewhere new and be expected to enjoy themselves without a decade to decompress?” Exactly, I thought. This is the show for me.

To read more: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/on-television/travel-man-richard-ayoades-travel-show-for-people-who-hate-travel

Top Travel Destinations: Ortigia Island, Historical Center Of Syracuse, Sicily

From a New York Times online article:

In Syracuse, taking a passeggiata, or evening walk, around the perimeter of Ortigia island, is a popular activity.CreditCreditSusan Wright for The New York TimesA passeggiata, or evening walk, around the perimeter of Ortigia reveals many notable structures and stories. Start from the Parco Letterario Elio Vittorini, on the eastern side, and head clockwise. As waves crash against the rocks below the sea wall, you’ll pass crenelated lookout points and the chiseled facade of the 17th-century Chiesa dello Spirito Santo, before finding yourself in the palm-planted gardens of the 13th-century Castello Maniace. 

Founded by Greeks around 734 B.C.,ortigia sicily map Ithe southeastern Sicilian city that Cicero called “the greatest and most beautiful of all Grecian cities” achieved a size and status in the ancient world that made it a rival of major powers like Athens and Carthage. Takeovers and makeovers by Romans, Byzantines, North Africans, Normans and others left their marks as well, influencing everything from religious art to the region’s distinctive savory-sweet-sour cooking style. Much of the ancient city has crumbled since Cicero’s day, though the ruins can still be explored in Syracuse’s celebrated archaeological park and museum. But the main attraction today is the historical center of Syracuse: Ortigia island, a maze of narrow streets, ornate Baroque churches and centuries-old palazzi.

To read more: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/05/travel/what-to-do-36-hours-in-syracuse-sicily.html

Top European Cities: Cadiz, Spain Features “Delicious Andalusian Cuisine”, Ancient History

From a New York Times online article:

The neighborhood of La Viña is packed with open-air restaurants.CreditSebastian Modak The New York TimesOne of the reasons the province of Cádiz is on this year’s 52 Places list is food, as chefs in the area are innovating with pork and fish, the base ingredients here. I tried out a few of the white-tablecloth joints, but came away remembering the noisy, cheap tapas bars that have been around forever.

What makes Andalusian cuisine so delicious are the ingredients, and sometimes less is more. Why go crazy with reductions and infusions when freshly caught sardines sprinkled with olive oil are enough to elicit moans?

Cádiz, the province and city on Spain’s southwestern edge, is an underdog — and I’m among the many travelers who have spent years overlooking it. I know Andalusia, the southern region it is part of, well. For years, it’s been a meeting point for my family who has just as much wanderlust as I do and is spread across the world.

To read more: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/03/travel/cadiz-an-underrated-corner-of-spain.html