I spend the day exploring Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, an autonomous region of Iraq. I wander the Qaysari Bazaar, sampling some of the city’s best kebab, washing it down with some tea in an authentic old cafe. I head inside Erbil’s famous citadel, before finishing up with a stroll down the buzzing Iskan Street.

Erbil, also called Hawler and known in ancient history as Arbela, is the capital and most populated city in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. It has around 1.5 million inhabitants, while Erbil Governorate has 2,932,800 inhabitants as of 2020.